Aussie Aussie Aussie Oi Oi Oi

If anyones asks if I had a favourite place while in Australia, I wouldn't know how to respond. It's not that I didn't like it, I just think that people don't understand it's enormity to warrant a single first-place prize for a favourite place. I have favourite memories, maybe, but everywhere is so incredibly different. It's comparable to traveling around America and asking if you had a favourite state, or around Europe and having a favourite country, let alone a revered city. Even though Australia has just 6 states, to travel just within one of those states is a ginormous adventure from one inch on the map to the next, which takes on average a 12 hour bus ride. That was the norm. You'd complain, but you wouldn't question it. Planning a trip to Australia can be overwhelming, which is why I booked a one way ticket with a year-long visa, but I was surprised by how many people just went over for a couple weeks' holiday, picking just one area to explore. There's so much I saw, and even more that I didn't see, I may just have to go back some day....for a visit. 

To sum up my Australian adventure, in definitely not 140 characters or less and in very much my own opinion, let me try to explain my eleven-month experience abroad Down Under. There are links to past posts about destinations and experiences that I would like to share, but not repeat completely again here. 

Perth*, in the very far west of Western Australia, is at least ten years behind the rest of the Australian cities due to its isolation, but it breathes booming potential. The perfect example is the restaurant chain Pie Face: when I was leaving Perth, there was a Pie Face that was just nearly opening; when I was in Brisbane, I was shocked to hear that Pie Face was open until 10pm; when I got to Melbourne, Pie Face was open 24 hours and a popular late night spot; when I got to Sydney, I was way over seeing Pie Face on every other corner; and now there is even a Pie Face in New York City. Perth will catch up. It is an attractive city with annually good weather - even when there are astonishingly loud tropical downpours, the sky still shines bright blue. It is an overly walkable city; well, city is a relative term purely dependant on the surrounding remoteness and walkable is a relative term dependant on my upbringing! Despite it's size and lack of apparent tourist sites, it actually offers a lot of attractions if you open your imagination to explore the area. It is close to the ocean and its hungry sharks; has a modern CBD; a small yet rowdy and fun nightlife overrun by Irish; has two AFL teams; close to Rottnest Island and quirky Fremantle; home to Gemma Ward, Heath Ledger, and Isla Fisher; contains the large, photogenic Kings Park; is the hub to the mining industry; exudes unfathomable wealth; can get away with charging $22 for toast and avocado breakfast dish; and sucks you in for longer than you want to stay. I wouldn't say Perth* is for everyone, but I liked it a lot.

To the north of Western Australia, I only went as far as Monkey Mia* in the Shark Bay Marina Park and  member of a World Heritage Site. Up there, the Outback creeps closer to the scantily inhabited coastline. 800 kilometres, 10 hours of driving, and only a dent made on the Western map, the ocean sparkles a brighter turquoise and the land flattens out to expanses of red dirt, dry bushes, and the danger of a kangaroo running into the front of your car at the exact moment in the middle of nowhere only because he panics during his temporary blindness from the lights of the car. The only other danger is of course breaking down. You could ride for hours without seeing another car, except for maybe one of the many terrifyingly long road-trains that dominate the drive. Even though you get the sense of being in the Outback, in the middle of nowhere, you aren't, and can't possibly fathom heading east where you really would be completely surrounded by the companionless red dirt. And even after all that driving, you may not accomplish what the adventure was for: to see a dolphin.

Less than 300 kilometres south of Perth is Margaret River, Western Australia's biggest wine region. Although the production is quite modest compared to the rest of Australia, it dominates the Australian wine market. Maybe only having experienced and visited much of the Italian wine world to compare it to, and especially from my stint at working at a winery further south in the smaller region of Great Southern of Western Australia, I feel as though Margaret River resembles Napa or Sonoma Valley. Almost showy like Disneyland. The area's wines are very popular, but not my favourite, and it seemed as though they were trying to make the most of their money from tourism with signs along the side of the street welcoming thirsty travelers to come in for a taste and buy wines directly from the source. Although there was one winery after another after another as you follow the wine map, each one has it's own distinct concept and background story that is unique to their neighbour that they use to their advantage to promote their wines: whether it is a luxurious estate with grandiose gardens perfect for wedding pictures, or a little wooden house with a family wine-making history that goes back for generations, or a corporately owned property by foreign investors who know how to market a world-wide popular label.

Continuing south of Western Australia through the Great Southern Region, you find yourself again completely surrounded by stark emptiness. Instead of red dirt though, there are overlapping fields of "happy" grazing cattle and mesmerising perfectly-planted rows of blue gum trees. Tall trees line and shadow the sides of the meandering roads. Kangaroos, either dead on the side of the road like an overturned table, or sneakily trying to get drunk off of the trellised wine grapes, are more populated in the area than people. From where I lived at the winery, 45 minutes was the standard average driving time to get anywhere, either to the mountains of the Stirling Ranges in the east or to the hippy towns of Albany and Denmark along the very southern coast where the popular beaches join the emptiness of Western Australia to the north with the solitary Southern Ocean with nothing beyond it until Antarctica. Working at the winery was probably one of my favourite experiences. I learned so much about wine production and was surprised to learn I could adapt to live in serious remoteness with housemates of spiders, mice, possums, and more spiders. 

Besides the childhood dream of seeing penguins in Australia, and of course see the sexy Rod Stewart in concert, one of the things I really wanted to do was take the train across the continent from the west to the east through the Outback. Not a single person I told thought it was a good idea. Everyone thought I was nuts, completely out of my mind to want to spend that time or money in the middle of nowhere.  No one understood my fascination with the red dirt as I tried to explain or justify a desire to want to see and be a part of the Outback as it is such a encompassing embodiment of what makes up Australia that not many people experience. I relished in the thought of being on that train with endless views and to be alone. Although I still do fancy the idea, rationality got the better of me and it was more practical to go east by airplane. I didn't make it to Darwin, but mum and I did go to Alice Springs and Uluru in the Northern Territory. Alice Springs* was a bit of a disappointment and it would be the only place throughout my travels I wouldn't glorify or necessarily commend going. I would, however, urge people to go, just so they could see it for themselves, maybe only for one night, and definitely as a stop to go to Uluru. At first I think we lamented a bit over deciding to go, regretted is not the right word, but now looking back at my time in Australia, I am appreciative that we did go because I know it would be somewhere I would have wished I had gone to. Uluru* is definitely worth the trip and I think if we had organised it better, both mum and I would have liked to spend more time there with our hiking boots and warm-weather clothes on.

I never went to Adelaide, but heard quaintly nice things. Heading east, the Great Southern Road* is a must drive. It is do-able in a day either by yourself or with a tour, or you can break it up and spend the night along the way. The Twelve Apostles* is an impressive sight by no exaggeration. The rest of the drive, with the observation look out points along the coast, are less awe-inspiring, if not repetitive*.

The south of Western Australia had a reminiscent Mediterranean climate, but Melbourne, in the South of Victoria is overall distinctly European. My experience of having grown up and survived many cold New England and Irish winters arrogantly convinced me that Melbourne couldn't be that cold - it is Australia after all and my backpack was only filled with summer clothes appropriate for 30 degrees! I was wrong. Melbourne*, as it is part of Australia, is still built to be like an Australian city despite it's long winters of cold rains and drafty winds. I was made fun of for wearing the same pink wind-breaker all the time, but it was the only one I had and there was always a chance it was going to rain during the day. Possibly because of the weather, Melbourne is European in lifestyle as well. Cafes are little niches found down past corners of secretly unassuming alley ways, coffee culture rules, pop up art galleries attract the stylish and the interested, and during the summer, everyone flocks to the beaches to soak up the first warmth of sun - comforted only by the common paleness of everyone else. At the same time, Melbourne also feels very much like Asia. Chinese, Japanese, Malaysian, Thai, Vietnamese, Taiwanese, Filipino, and Cambodian restaurants seem to dominate every street. I lived off $2 sushi rolls. The architecture is unique, artsy, and often so mind-boggling that it would endlessly stimulate any architect or design student. It appears to be a very young city, especially with the presence of the University in the city centre. Although I walked everywhere in Melbourne and the tram system was diligently efficient, I still felt a bit overwhelmed and unable to get a clear grasp on the city. Each surrounding neighbourhood has it's own distinct personality that attracts different crowds. I also don't think I "did" Melbourne "right." I always had one foot in, one foot out. Working two jobs only to leave, but wanting to stay.

Melbourne to Sydney is either a 14+ hour bus ride or an hour and a half flight. Fly. Sydney is a city better than expected. In saying that, I'd dare say it is the most visited destination in Australia with the most iconic sights, but remember that I also chose to fly to Perth first, where not as many people visit, so my overall opinion and preliminary assumptions might be a bit different. Actually seeing these magnificent monuments and symbols of Australia in person exceeds any expectation previously seen on TV or on postcards. Sydney Harbour* is an obvious example, but Manly Beach* is the first place I really felt a sensation for witnessing what is portrayed as Australian, or the perceived stereotype we learn from the movies. Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, is a really immaculate, handsome city - I have consciously noticed that in general about Australia on how well they proudly look after their places. Despite all the characteristic hustle and bustle of an international city, Sydney exudes a familiar, comfortable demeanour. I found it amusing that everytime I asked someone for the direction of Central Station, they would point, then warn me that it was a very far walk and I would be better off catching the train or bus. And I would smile in response as I knew, but assuaged their concern to their satisfaction by saying I just needed to know the direction - then off I would go, walking the entire way, not far at all.

An overnight bus ride from Sydney leads you to the ever popular Byron Bay*. The tour books say people come for a day and stay for a month. I booked for 3 nights and stayed for 5. It is generally the first or last stops along backpackers' trips up or down the coast. It is a small coastal town filled with people who are eager to catch some rays, surf, and start their partying at Cheeky Monkey's, or people who are soaking up the last of the sun and the waves and one last party at Cheeky Monkey's. Always Cheeky Monkey's. You can't go there without anyone telling you you have to go there, or without anyone asking if you have been there. Byron Bay = Cheeky Monkey's. Ok, a bit of an exaggeration, but they go hand in hand. The town has a sort of hippy eco-friendly vibe with a straightforward laid-back surfer attitude. The beautiful beach and the walk around the lighthouse to the most easterly point of mainland Australia are really worth the visit, as is the more private beach, Tallow Beach, popular to surfers and seagulls. Byron Bay will always be the start of my east coast travels and the start of a beautiful friendship.

Nimbin*. What to say about Nimbin. Just go. And laugh ridiculously at the day.

Surfers Paradise* is unlike anywhere else in Australia. The safety flags that allow swimming in the ocean mark a small breadth and the beach is not the best looking in Australia, so where the name came from is a bit of a mystery, unless you Wikipedia it and read that it is ranked as one of the best beaches on the east, in which case, I am wrong. The name is clearly one of the draws as a popular tourist destination. The existence of the high rise buildings lining the coast also exemplify this popular spot proving that everyone wants a sliver of the view. If you don't like shopping, or theme parks, or clubbing nightlife, then this isn't the spot for you. The nightlife, including the mini skirts and the proper shoes, is spectacular, but expensive if you don't do it properly* but during the day, I was bored. It was the first place that I would have left with a bit of a bizarre impression of the place, but it was all about the people who made the place. Surfers may not be everyone's cup of tea (you won't be drinking tea there) but for me, it will be one of my favourite memories - and to be visited again two more times.

Brisbane* was better every time I visited. Third time's the charm. I visited the first time with mum, unsuccessfully to find a job or a new home there, then a weekend getaway to visit Ted, and the last time for the duration of my stay in Australia. I like Brisbane. It's energetic, sunny, attractive, walkable (or is that just a habit of mine??), jay-walk free, tidy, London-like, San Fran-like, bigger than Perth, open later than Perth, architecturally stimulating, outdoorsy, well-fed, cultural, bustling, dive-y, modern, hippy, hilly. Each of the ten bridges that cross the Brisbane River and connect the city are architecturally different, one with built-in benches to sit and enjoy the views. There was a devastating flood the year before and barely a trace of damage left today, except for lines marking the walls that measured how high the water raised. Nothing like the remaining traces of flooding in New Orleans. There isn't much night life in Brisbane, or so I found, but it is bustling with it's constant sunshine. There are the brightest purple flowering trees and sprawling red Queensland trees that just brighten the city, to an appreciative admirer in awe. 

Noosa is lovely. It's quaint, it's posh. It's a hotspot for celebrities, wealthy retirees, and surfers.

Rainbow Beach, the gateway to Fraser Island, has a remarkable beach that goes on for miles and a tiny little town seemingly only existing to suit the people passing by.
Fraser Island* is one of those trips you have to do while traveling the eastern coast. As the world's largest sand island, it is a World Heritage Site with some of the purest fresh water on the planet that will be-numbingly knock off any goon hangover. It is a bumpy adventure that is guaranteed to be filled with laughs. Watch out for dingo's, just cross your arms over your boobs if they come near you: it's a subtle gesture guaranteed to scare them away. Fraser Island is beautiful, but I never had a grasping moment where I thought, this is exactly what I've come to see. Maybe it was because I was too busy laughing the entire time to notice - entirely possible. But because of this experience, I really got a boost for my future travels that proved to me I can do this on my own.

There are stops along the coast between Rainbow Beach and Airlie Beach*, but a 12 hours bus will bring you there directly. As the bus pulls in and you squint in the morning light after an uncomfortable cramped semi-sleep, your eyes will immediately brighten when you see the absolute twinkling colour of the ocean. It shouts clearly in your head that you will like this place immensely. There is pretty much just one main street that leads through Airlie Beach, which doesn't have a beach at all but a man-made lagoon. Although there are day trips to the Whitsundays, most people go on boats for 3 days and 2 nights. There are innumerable amounts of boats, which all have their own personalities attracting different crowds for various experiences whether it is diving or partying or old people. Old. Ha. The trip around the islands is breath taking and relaxing and the underwater world seen through diving goggles is sublimely beyond words. Being stuck on a boat with a group of people for 3 days and 2 nights insists you become friends, or at least friendly, with them. The scenery is spectacular, but it is the people that make the trip memorable. After the boat trip, the cherry on top is a flight over the Whitsundays. There are different lengths, prices and trips of the flights, but the best, most worthwhile, and obviously the most expensive is the one that includes the Great Barrier Reef. Absolutely. Amazing.

Mission Beach* is tiny. Unless you are planning on skydiving over the Great Barrier Reef and landing on the beach or if you want a quiet couple of days to yourself, there really isn't much else going on there. I did hold a baby wallaby and saw a lot of wild ones, but yeah.

The road up and along northern Queensland is tropically spectacular. Really mesmerising and breath-taking with all sorts of vegetation and mountains to occupy any boredom on a typically long bus ride. Cairns* is as far north as I went. It's a mini city with an old country feel. It's easy to walk around, either around the harbour where restaurants and hotels take the place of hostels and backpackers or through the town with the outside dining and tourist offices offering all sorts of travel packages. The sun is warm, the nightlife is fun, and the swarming bats love it. I liked it more than I thought I would and would definitely like to go back again to see more of the Great Barrier Reef and the rain forest, but for me, the stop was just to head back down: a two hour plane ride instead of a bazillion hour bus ride.

So, as you can maybe see, all of Australia is extraordinary. There is not one place better than the other and the people are truly what make the place, the memories, and the experience.  Traveling up the coast, or down as some did, it seems as though the Australian coast is only filled with backpackers. There are sights to see, people to meet, parties to be had, skins to be tanned, native animals to be held, tours to be taken, animals to be scared of. Some people have it all planned out with a limited time frame. Some people leave room for flexibility. Some people stay in places longer than anticipated, but everyone is passing through. One bus to another, one city to another, one beach to another, one hostel to another, one group of friends to another. The cities have a different mentality, but they are also cities with all the amenities and shops found in other cities around the world so it is easier to stay and find a home there, but they just happen to be really far away from home. The good weather is definitely part of the appeal. The warmth of the sun makes it hard to leave and the thought of living anywhere else with cold and rain and snow is almost unfathomable. Australia lacks a bit of history and a bit of culture. I know it's there, in a minute sense compared to the rest of the world and it's not as evident or all-surrounding like it is in Europe. I missed that.  It's very Westernised; not much of a culture shock at all. When I arrived in Perth, I honestly thought I had just flown for twenty eight hours to arrive in California with funny accents and cars driving on the wrong side of the road. My sister asked me why I wouldn't just live in California if it was so similar to Perth, but I didn't have an answer. I didn't want to live in America and I wanted to like Perth and Australia - I did, I do -  I think I just wanted to find a home and was looking for it in the wrong place. Australia is also very American in the sense that it is a fairly new country where most of the Australians still have parents or grandparents who are from Europe. So for me, to stay there for another year would feel like just another year living abroad. I miss it already to be honest, now that I am writing this back in Ireland, but in all the unique, different, odd, and stunning places I went to in Australia, I was incredibly lucky with the tremendous experiences I had, the iconic places I was able to visit, and the unforgettable people that I met. For all the reasons, or lack of reasons, for going to Australia, I am glad that I did. I'm glad I went when I did. And now it's on to what's next. 


And if anyone really wants to know, my favourite part of Australia is the stars. Absolutely. 

Christmas in Brisbane. Kinda.

Palm Trees. Summertime. It's hard to believe it's Christmas. But, there are actually Christmas windows in Brisbane. They even have snow. Why Australians have to pretend Christmas is like what it is in the Northern Hemisphere, I have no idea. It wasn't exactly Saks Fifth Ave, but it made me smile. 

Michal Comes to Brisbane.

Michal comes to Brisbane! Michal comes to Brisbane! 

I said earlier, third time's a charm in Brisbane.

Carly: Does your friend have a place to stay yet? She is more than welcome to stay here.
Me: Really? That's so nice, I'll ask her.
Carly: Yeah no problem, you can choose who you want to sleep next to you on the pull-out.
Me: OoOh Really?!

Michal just couldn't not come to Brisbane. It was destined for us to meet up one last time again in Australia. From the very first city of my travels, to the very last. Carly had also finally heard back from one of the hairdressers she had sent her CV to and asked to come in for an interview, so we had more than one reason to treat ourselves out to dinner. We went down the road in Woolongabba to Chalk Hotel, which after walking into and up to the upstairs dining area and bar I realised I had been there before when I visited Ted and his friends in October. It was an odd realisation to be in an area I currently knew so familiarly but remember arriving to the same place in a taxi, thinking it was in the middle of nowhere Brisbane, a place I could never find again or would never see again - but here it was. It happened to be a burger + Jug dinner deal and trivia night. It definitely wasn't the $19 special or the burger that won us over, but the jug sealed the deal.

I don't think any of us actually grasped the concept of having a jug of beer to ourselves as we placed our orders. It was the biggest meal I had eaten in ages. And we didn't win trivia. We didn't even come close. But it was a lot of fun.

An English, two Scottish, and an Irish walk into a loud, dark bar....all we need is a Welsh and the jibber jabber confusion of accents that make up our conversation, or what we think is a conversation, would be complete. 

 case in point: Wild Hogs in Scottish sounds exactly like Whale Talks. Like that is even the name of a movie. But it is what I heard, and what I wrote down diligently, nodding my head convincingly as Jonny so confidently proclaimed the name of the movie to answer the trivia question. If only Dory was there to translate.

Angle Triangle also got us a point. 

Earlier that day, I had run into Inken randomly again on the exact same corner of Elizabeth and Edward Street in Brisbane as we were crossing the street heading in opposite directions both times. The second time, with Lovina, they told me they were leaving their jobs at the call centre to move to the Outback to work at a hostel. It happened to be their last night in the big city of Brisbane, in urban civilisation, so they were going out. I promised them I would meet them out for one last good bye, one last separation from Team Horsefly. Throughout all of our Australian travels, this would be the last until we all meet up again in another foreign country. So, Michal and I sauntered into town in the dark along the river with the city lights reflecting in the calm water. We chatted without reserve, catching up on all we hadn't emailed about. It was like we hadn't been apart since Surfers Paradise a month ago.

Brisbane doesn't have a big night life scene and as we arrived into the quiet streets, we were lead to what seemed to be the only bar open. As it was the only bar open in town, it was absolutely packed.

Met up with Chris again. But, what's with that guy's shirt?

Michal and I devised a plan to split up to each end of the bar and see who could be served first in the sea of thirsty backpackers, crammed like sardines up against the bar as shoulders snuggly still found room to strut to the music. Without knowing it, Michal and I were both served and we both had the idea to buy two rounds as to not have to get crushed into the ardent crowd again. Brilliant, we are.

Bitch, please. 

Being the busiest bar in Brisbane that night, and as it happens regularly in Australia, Chris was also there. So it was Byron Bay, Fraser Island, and Whitsundays all together in Brisbane for one last goodbye.

Reunited. With some goober (not Chris). 

The following day, Michal and I were left by the busy worker bees to enjoy the sun. We wandered hungrily along Grey Street, unsure of what type of food would satisfy insatiable us. I couldn't stop thinking about noodles and we agreed on a little Japanese place with outdoor seating along the sidewalk that advertised agreeably cheap prices. We sat down outside with a menu until I realised the price for the same exact thing was $4 dearer than what was on the sign. It looked like the same restaurant, the staff seemed to be working at both, the food was similar if not the same, but we couldn't figure out why the prices were different. Being the cheap, fastidious backpacker, I refused to pay more for what we had thought we were committing to. For $4 less, we just moved two tables down, with the same sidewalk views, had a limited food selection instead of the menu-book, and just had to order at the counter instead of being served table-side. This is what happens when you're on a budget, you only see prices and demand the most bang for your buck. Sure I could have had my usual piece of toast and cheese and Michal could have had her cup o'soup diet, but please, this was Michal and Shauna reunited for one last time in Australia.

I could have easily and happily had a second bowl of noodles if we weren't heading over to the lagoon to sunbathe.

 

fake lagoon.

One last sunbathe to soak up the Australian sun before it would freeze off in the Irish winter winds. One last sunbathe meant one last burn and a blistered sunburnt lip. 

When we couldn't see our sun damage - sunglasses on or off - we decided we would buy dinner for C & J as a thank you for letting us stay with them. We had talked about having a big BBQ as a bon voyage but most of the people I knew in the city had left by then so it was just the four of us, with Reginald in his tweed looking after our cold beers in the pool, our forkless salad, and kangaroo burgers.

When in doubt, the pool can also be a refrigerator. Just don't leave the guests unattended.

No diving, Carly. 

I felt so lucky to have such good friends to laugh with and friends from around the world who I met around Australia who were now friends with each other.

Michael, Joan, Carlos, and Shaun. 

I didn't want to say goodbye. I had met Michal towards the beginning of my trip, and here she was towards the end. Even if we hadn't traveled the same trip together, she was always there. She was like the boyfriend you keep because it's safe, the one you stay together with so you don't have to be completely alone. Like the high school boyfriend you don't break up with when you go off to Uni until you have securely found your place with your new friends...and a new boyfriend. The one that even if you're not together, you know he's only a phone call away, there to text whenever, or to talk to when you go home at night. Even when I didn't have that boyfriend anymore, and was traveling utterly alone, Michal was still there. Michal was always a phone call, a text, an email, a Facebook message away reassuringly telling me that I would love the Fraser Island trip and Whitsunday sailing, giving me suggestions of places she had previously been to as I arrived in a new place alone, sharing with me her own solo escapades as we ventured in opposite directions amongst the country, but then somehow managing to make plans with each other to meet up again. I hope she stays in her beloved Sydney, I hope she still gets to travel the rest of the world despite her love for Sydney, I hope she moves to London to live near me. I hope she even gives sake another chance. I know we'll stay in touch. I know we'll see each other again. Somewhere in this world. With a glass, no a bottle of wine, to catch up and laugh until we have stitches or pee ourselves. 

Christmas in Brisbane.

My lovely Scottish house mates wanted to have a typical Australian Christmas, which involved an Australian Christmas tree. They decided they wanted to make, or drink, their Christmas tree with green VB cans, or really, any can that was green. Possibly some red ones and the shown blue ones to look like decorations. We brewed over endless ideas and possibilities of how to build it, what shape and 3D form it could take, white wine angels on top, tinsel and lights delicately draped around it, whether or not to use tape or just balance them one on top of the other and hope the breeze of the AC wouldn't blow them over. I contributed towards my free rent with beers, with a deeper understanding that this was part of their thirst-quenching Christmas spirit and the start of an intoxicating Australian tradition. I wouldn't get to see the final product of this Very Bogan Christmas Tree, nor would I be around to finish the rest of the chocolates in my advent calendar, but I am sure it came fully into a boozy fruition. 

Dear Australia,

I really like you. I like you a lot.

Love, Shauna

It all happened so fast. At one point while in Mission Beach, alone and far away, an idea sprouted and I planted it in Dad's head, but displaced it in the back of my mind to slowly germinate. I felt a bit lost, broke, and exhausted from traveling. I was at a point, again, where I wasn't sure which direction of life I was heading towards and any decision could waver the compass' arrow.* I just had a little over a month left in sunny Australia before my visa was up and I thought about just giving in and going home. All the decisions and options of what to do with the remainder of my time could easily be dissipated and solved if I just left them all behind and went home. Home, you may ask, is where? My flight back was booked on miles and Dad checked to see if they could be changed. The only options he could find were to fly either on Christmas back to America, when my family would be in Ireland, or on the 8th of January which wouldn't make any sense to leave just a week early. So, the idea to leave evaporated into the humid heat of northern Queensland and I continued making plans to get back to Brisbane and find a job. 
After dismissing all regional work, finally deciding I didn't want to spend the rest of my time here working towards a second year that I wasn't even sure I wanted to return for, I was set on finding a holiday job. I was flying out of Brisbane, I had friends that were there, it was close to the Gold Coast...it just made sense to go to Brisbane. The only hitch was that I had promised to be in Sydney for Christmas and had made plans for New Years Eve there too. So, technically I had two weeks to work in Brisbane, a week in Sydney, then another 2 weeks of work in Brisbane. Who would hire me for that amount of time - even if I lied about how much time I had there? Sydney was too expensive that I barely gave two thoughts about looking for a place to stay and a job there. 

I didn't think it would be hard to find a job, given most places usually hire extra staff around the holiday season, but I couldn't find any job. I didn't even get any responses back. There were no appropriate jobs posted on seek or indeed or gumtree. I blindly wrote to places of interest, in hopes that they might like my resume or just need some extra help. I wrote to all the Irish pubs in the city - just to confuse them with my wonky accent. I printed out my resume and went around to all the hostels to ask if they were hiring. Everyone said, come back in the new year. I had a place to stay for free (I paid rent with tree-building beer cans) but I couldn't justify staying in Australia for a month, just for the sake of seeing out the rest of my visa, if I wasn't working and I was done with traveling. So the idea that was already planted in Dad's head and buried in the back of my head, began to flourish. It was hard to cancel New Years Eve plans and to think about not only leaving my friends, but the sunshine warmth of summer and to finally leave behind the entire year that was my Australian Adventure. But, once the idea developed into a realisation that I could spend Christmas with my family in Ireland, I was all set and started to check out. The fact that I could pull of a surprise and not tell Jess I was coming made it all the more exciting. Once I realised all this, I went back to happy holiday mode and decided to just enjoy and take advantage of the rest of my time in Australia, trying not to spend the dim remainder of my money, and to soak up as much sun as possible. I think also the fact that I was going to Donegal rather than flying back to America made leaving somewhat more ok. It wouldn't be easy to leave, but I was actually really really excited. 

* I think I should buy a Magic 8 ball as my indecisive compass. 

X Factor in Brisbane.

Carly and I were walking into the city centre one day when we heard screams. Screams that came in waves like voices on a roller coaster. As we wandered down the pedestrian mall, the screams got louder and we could see a swarm of people - mostly teeny bopper girls. "It must be Jason Bieber" I murmered to Carly. Two seconds later, a guy behind us repeated the same thing.

It was however, after a couple of staring from standing on a bench and not recognizing anyone in the crowd, we asked the person next to us who said it was a group from X Factor. I remember watching X Factor in Melbourne and remembered that some of the contestants who didn't make it into the single finals were made into a boy band group by Ronan Keating.

They looked familiar after that, but still hadn't heard any of their songs and wondered how terrible it must be to have to work their way through this crowd of screaming, grasping girls in the sweaty heat of the day.

When it Rains, it Pours.

Carly and I tried desperately to go Christmas shopping in Brisbane. Desperately I mean because we bought nothing and because it was in the pouring rain, but we persevered. We walked for about half an hour in the rain until we got into the centre of the city, completely drenched, but unwavered. We wandered in and out of the shops before we decided we would be better off purchasing a drink. So we got out of the rain and sat down with the workers, who weren't working because it was raining (!??!) and enjoyed ourselves. Just as we were leaving, even though the sky was bright, it was heavily downpouring. We sighed and said, you know what happens when it rains? You get wet. 

Bar artwork.

It's really hard to feel like it's Christmas or get in the holiday spirit when it is sunny, 30 degrees CELCIUS, and feels like you are on a summer holiday. The tourist shops offering Australia memorabilia are filled with crap no one really wants. Most of the stores in the shopping arcades are over priced and the rest of them can be found at home. There aren't any Australian trends or anything particularly "Australian" to bring back as gifts. I found it incredibly difficult to not only to get in the mood but to find any motivation for buying worthwhile gifts. I sent some knick-knacks to Ireland to say, I'm thinking of you, wish I was there, I have some more time to buy you some proper gifts ie in the after-Christmas sales, but that mentality soon changed. I always thought that I didn't care where I was for Christmas as long as I was on the beach with a cocktail. But after traveling up the coast for a month and seeing beach after beach, I was over the beach idea. I wanted to go home. Home? I don't know where home is. I wanted to be with my family. 

Back in Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

After Cairns, I arrived back in Brisbane for the third time. The third time is really a charm; I liked it even more. It was time to find a holiday job to pay back for all the traveling. I was flying out of Brisbane so it was the most likely spot to go. Although in hindsight it didn't make sense at all. I had two weeks until Christmas, in which I was meant to go to Sydney and then had made plans to spend New Years there too, then after I would have another two weeks in Brisbane before my visa was up and I had to leave. I probably should have considered going to Sydney to find a job, but I found it incredibly expensive and I had more friends in Brisbane and the nearby Gold Coast. I booked into a hostel for 2 nights, the cheapest I could find, which was a 20 person dorm room. 20 person! It actually wasn't so bad. There were two bunks against every wall, and I found a bed on the very last wall with window views so, although it was loud with a combination of 20 people coming and going all the time, it felt quite private just sharing with 3 other beds. Oh, the life of a backpacker. Unfortunately, because it was summertime in Brisbane with high's of 30's, and with 20 people in a room, it was incredibly sweaty-roasting hot. I could barely breathe and ended up going to sit outside in the bar's common area and chatting with one of the guys from my row of bunks. I wasn't in the mood to be out, or drinking, or chatting, but anything was better than being in the hot room, unable to sleep, so I just watched all the other partiers dancing the night away. 

 

The following day, after applying and searching for jobs, literally anything I could find even under and over-qualified for, I met up with Carly and Jonny at their hostel, laying out by the pool and drinking cool drinks. 

Their hostel, on top of a hill overlooking the city, had fantastic views of Brisbane. 

Carly by the way is a phenomenal diver. 

tourists. 

I told them about the free tacos at my hostel and we went back there. It happened to be idol karaoke night. carly can sing. jonny just drank. i did both.

Carly and Jonny moved into their own flat a couple days later. The very day they moved in, they invited me to come stay with them. They almost insisted. The conversation went like this:

"You're here until Christmas, right?"
"Yeah, in Brisbane until then, but I wouldn't possibly stay with you for that long. Just a few days would be so nice and generous of you."
"What! No! Stay until Christmas! Stay as long as you want! My cousin is coming on the 18th, I will sleep on the pull out couch with him and you can sleep in the bed. No really, we want you to stay."
"You guys are nuts. I love you." x

I was hoping to get a job in a hostel where I would get free accommodation (and wouldn't have to be in C&J's way) and most hostels also provide free meals, laundry, and wi fi. But until I found a job, I was on holiday. The sun was warm, the tan was improving, the city was gleaming, and I only had less than a month left to enjoy my time in Australia.






My couch surfing host, I mean friend, Paul had never been to Brisbane even though he had been in Australia for the last eleven months and only lived an hour away in the Gold Coast. I had no job or plans, he had nothing to do on Friday night so he decided to come up for a visit. Cue: giggles. He loved Brisbane. He loved not seeing muscle heads in tank tops, he loved the fact that we could just go to bars instead of paying to get into night clubs. There isn't a huge night life scene in Brisbane, at least not from what I experienced, so the following day, with no job and no plans and just a $20 bus ride, I decided to go back to Surfers Paradise. Hanging out with Paul as he led his bar crawl, I was so spoilt and didn't pay a penny the entire night. As it happens when traveling up and down the coast, you run into people you've met before, even if it's been a couple weeks and even if you can't pinpoint where you met them. I got a text from someone I had met a month ago from the beginning of my trip in Byron Bay and then literally bumped into someone I had met in Airlie Beach. Such a way to come full circle.

I was so lucky with my first couch surfing experience. I haven't done it since - I've tried but it hasn't worked out - but I made a really good friend from meeting and trusting a complete stranger. We kept in touch and met up again, and I hope that we will do it again, in Miami, New York, Asia, Europe or wherever we are.

What really delighted me about the actual trip down to Surfers Paradise is that I just had a shoulder bag. Everyone else getting off the bus was waiting wearily while their backpacks were being pulled out from under the bus and then had to figure out how to get to their next hostel and start all over again in a new place. I didn't miss that at all. I absolutely loved the traveling that I had just done, but I was also glad to be done with it for now. Walking straight off the bus and knowing exactly where we were going was such an incredible feeling, to be with a local, to not have to feel lost and alone, to be confident in already knowing your surroundings - it may sound weird, but it put a little bounce in my step. 

It Took Me Only 2 Hours to Fly From Cairns Back Down The Coast It Took Me 28 Days To Get Up To.

Leaving Cairns, I am really happy. It's just a 2 hour plane ride back to where I (kinda) started a month ago. I'm absolutely delighted with the trip I've just had up the coast, as with the entire past eleven months in Australia.  I honestly can't believe it, but it feels a bit as though my time in this country is done, even though I still have a little over a month left here. Although I don't want to leave, especially leave the down-under weather, I feel as though the year can be completed whole-heartedly contently. I know I said before that if I could do it again, I would have done everything differently, but regret none of it. Knowing that now is all part of the traveling adventure and self enlightenment.

I have experienced a tremendous amount; I have seen iconic and stunning places; I have endured and persevered, emotionally and physically; I have grown up; I have made necessary sacrifices and worthy splurges; I have been blessed with the utmost kindest generosity and welcoming hospitableness; I have more confidence and am not only more comfortable with myself, but proud of what I've done to get there; I am still as indecisive but maybe a bit wiser; I have learnt things about myself, other people, other places and cultures and how to travel; I have seen places I have wanted to check off an invisible list of places to see, but realised that it is all about the people you are with who make the memories you will remember about the place; I have eternally grateful, appreciative, and indebted for having all these opportunities; I have met so many incredibly wonderful people that I truly feel grateful to have in my life and make me want to continue to travel - not only for the thrill of meeting new friends, but to travel to where these new friends are now to meet up again; and most importantly, I have fulfilled my 3rd grade dream. All of this with no plan except a one way ticket. The year at UNISG might still be my favourite, but this past year has been solidly the best one for me personally. It makes me excited and want to travel more, to see more of the world, to meet new people and visit friends around the world, and test more of myself in new situations to see how it will mould me into who I am supposed to be.

Since I know my time is coming to an end here with just a few weeks to enjoy the warmth of summer and spend the remaining time with my friends, I think I have nearly checked-out. When you know something is within your grasp, even if you don't want to leave, you start to look towards the future, to what's next, and get excited to go home to bask in the little things that have become luxuries to the backpacker. Despite everything I just mentioned from the last year here that I am going to honestly miss, and even though I still don't know where home is, I cannot wait to see my family.

So, as I fly over the Great Barrier Reef again (not as cool as my Whitsunday trip, but still really amazing to see from so high up) with my window seat overlooking the same coast I just traveled by ground up, it feels like the perfect ending.

The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience.  The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him.  He goes "sight-seeing."  ~Daniel J. Boorstin

Shit Australians Say #9

PS: It's pronounced Mel-burn not Mel-born just like Brisbane is Briz-bin not Bris-bayne. And Cairns is well. Um. It's care-nz in one syllable or some say Cans but that's apparently not correct. I just might not go there. 

roar

The Lone Koala Sanctuary: Part 2

Despite the name of the place, the koala's weren't alone at the Lone Koala Sanctuary. It was host and home to many other native Australian animals that tourists typically expect to see wandering the streets and are baffled when they don't see them running all over the place.

"I've been in Brisbane for three days already and I haven't seen ANY kangaroo's!" 

There were kookaburra's....
"kookaburra sits in the old gum tree
merry merry king of the bush is he
laugh kookaburra laugh kookaburra!
how gay your life must be."

There was a Tasmanian Devil. Sleeping in the sun and not running around like a wild one.

There was a possum.

After the koala's, my next favourite was the wombat, for a variety of reasons. 

 hi ted.

He's so cute and grumpy and was even messing around with his blankie. 

So cute, but watch out!! 

 Speaking of watching out, there is a perentie, the largest lizard in Australia and the fourth largest in the world. I dont know if you can see in the picture, but that is an entire bird in its mouth. Mum and I were walking by, about to skip the reptile until we were distracted by a loud flock of birds calling out and swooping down into the pen as they surrounded it from a nearby tree. We went around and saw this giant lizard munching down on a bird, bits of feathers protruding from his mouth as others fluttered to the ground. Apparently he jumped up and caught his lunch as they flew by and casually continued to eat it whole as the rest of the birds desperately and unsuccessfully to get their little bird friend back.

And if you can't see the victim being eaten, here's a video with commentary by a lady who saw it all happen.

my camera skills are tremendous.

I just noticed now, but I wonder if that lizard knows the crocodile is stealthily looking at him...One hungry chomp and the little lizard is gone in a swallow. A bit different from the scene above. People often get attacked by crocodiles but I wonder if a perentie lizard ever attacked someone, or if they prefer feathers. 

onwards away from the dangerous animals. There was a platypus in a tank, but Thank GOODNESS they didn't have a spider section. Had enough of that in my own room and in the vineyard thank you very much, Western Australia.

mum taking a picture of an emu, from a distance

a wallaby is kinda a smaller kangaroo. sorta.

these kangaroo's were definitely drugged. How they let anyone go near them and touch them and surround them and be photogenic all day I have no idea.

i feel creeeeeepy. but so cute and incredibly soft! please don't jump at me!

I don't know what anyone expects a pouch to look like, like a pocket right? but it definitely wouldn't be a giant slit in the mother's belly. 

I know it's supposed to be very natural and ooooh ahhhhh, but it doesn't look that comfortable, for either one. For the mother to have knobby legs coming at her in all directions and for the baby roo to be crouched in an orifice that looks so clammy and sweaty in there....

Along comes papa

There was a kangaroo rest area, where funnily enough, there were kangaroo's actually resting in there. I dont know how they know to go in there, or maybe they just want to escape the tourists, but it was quite clever, in a way...

The Lone Koala Sanctuary is a better experience than expected. It's still a zoo with captive animals, but for the exposure the visitor gets to these native animals which they expect to see in the country but might not get a chance to be out in the wild with them, let alone touch them, it's quite enjoyable by all....as shown by all the celebrities, royalties, pop stars, bands, and cool people that go there.