John & Sheelagh come to Italy! Liguria & Cuneo.

the next day it was off to the seacoast to show my parents all of our favourite summertime ligurian hot spots. banana tsunami included (even though it is empty and weirdo-less during day light hours). apparently, i learned, the boat docked in genova which i told them was christopher columbus' sailed straight here from disney world, was actually the boat used in some pirate movie - so the disney world related characteristics were not far off from hollywood. but they did see columbus' house. unfortunately our favourite pizza place was closed but mum did have her share of ligurian pesto pasta, because after all, that's what you eat when in liguria.

through the winding roads along the coastal mountain side, we reached vernazza - my favourite spot along the cinqueterre trail. it was a dark and stormy kinda day with huge waves crashing along the rocks and turbid clouds threatening a heavy downpour. after lunch underneath colourful umbrellas - the gaps clothes-pinned closed with draping cloth napkins to catch potential rain drops - with local white wine, troife alla pesto, polpo con patata and spaghetti arrabiata - dad went to take a nap and mum and I walked around the little town admiring the local products and artwork for sale and explored a small little church.

wedding destination #2

cute.

upon inquiring about a dinner reservation for later that night at a restaurant at the edge of town, above the harbour's rocks and overlooking the sea, we chatted up one of the workers who offered us two glasses of prosecco - despite the restaurant actually being closed mid-afternoon. i love this place.

we sat outside under a canopy overlooking the setting sun over the wild ocean waves and shivered in the september sea breeze despite the shelter.

 mum was shocked by the size of the octopus and surprisingly decided she didn't hate mozzarella - just the bland rubber that is sold outside of italy. 

the next day, the sun was shining and my parents were able to see the seacoast in a completely different light. literally. we sat and had cappuccinos and genovese foccaccia along the harbour as the waves behaved a little bit calmer. we drove along the Italian Riviera, the winding roads up and down, in and around, the mountains covered in olive trees on one side overlooking the rocky cliffs and the little villages below as the shining blue sea sparkled in the sun's reflexion. i was able to share and point out my favourite architecture of the area - the intricate fake-architecture-detailed paintings on the buildings and the beautiful brightly-coloured houses with breath-taking sea views. 

we eventually made it to Cuneo. koon-ee-oh. koon-ay-oh. why would you go to Cuneo, we were asked. i am not sure. except to go out to dinner. one of the Alma kids, Salvatore, was working his stage at delle Antiche Contrade. he said if i was ever in the area to come to the restaurant and he would talk to his (michelin-rated) chef about something special for us. sold. done. i'm there. we'll be in the area.

that guy front left is so perfect for the shot.

Cuneo is an curious little city. it is centered around a huge piazza with hotels, restaurants and little stores under a columed arcade. the square hosts weekly markets which one could just imagine being packed and even picture the horses and carts in the olden days. we didn't see much of the city and the walk to the restaurant was pretty quiet - only a couple restaurants were filled with people despite the apparent height of the season. we were the first to arrive in the restaurant - push the bell to be granted access. the walls were painted a warming yellow and we were greeted with a vespa parked in the foyer just before seeing the windows looking into the bright white kitchen. there's something trusting about open kitchens. maybe it has to do with my 13 months at Cava. I spotted Salvatore in his chef outfit and the waiter who sat us went to bring him out. It was nice to see a familiar face and he seemed to be enjoying working there, although missing home in Sicily. We were first welcomed with a glass of prosecco and a basket of different freshly baked breads - we were kindly warned that they were just out of the oven and still hot.

brioche, focaccia, olive bread, focaccia with roasted tomato, beet bun

piedmontese steak like a tartare

mum's pink veal slices in a white tuna sauce

chicken salad piemontese style - with white chicken from saluzzo - Buon Ricordo dish 2010

dad's spaghettone di Gragnano, oyster, ginger and basil seed

mum's ravioli stuffed with meat with its own juices

my linguine with lobster in a fresh tomatoes sauce

dad's saddle lamb fillet "as a Wellington" with peppers, tuna and capers

my veal fillet steak with potatoes and mushroom tart

the cheese cart. love.

my cheese selection. all regional except for one from sicily. i Love cheese.

complimentary dessert platter.

it was all really beautifully presented, the wait staff was very friendly, the dining room was elegant but comfortable - mum even got a little beauty-and-the-beast-doglike-stool for her purse - and the chef, Luigi Taglienti - Young Chef of the Year 2009 of L'Espresso - came out frequently to talk with each table and ask how everything was. a nice touch. at the end, i was given a tour of the kitchen as they cleaned up - learning about all the stations and being introduced to the young chefs learning under Taglienti. I even got a signed copy of the menu! (menu descriptions above copied directly). 

at the end of the menu is a list of the specific suppliers for the flour, parmesan, poultry, butcher, fish, cheeses and vegetables noting that "the choice of ingredients is crucial to grant dishes their exceptionality" and the wines honour the great 'terroir' of Piedmont. local. sustainable. you know i love it.

Many thanks later, I was told I could come work for them on a stage and to please come back to Cuneo! lovely. maybe, maybe i will...