Thursday, October 13, 2011

What's in Season: Broccoli & Cauliflower


Broccoli is green and cauliflower is white, right? Technically yes, but there are a whole lot of other differences within these Brassicas. Broccoli has one central stalk with sprouting stems that grow immature flower buds. Think of it as bunch of flowers! Cauliflower has a short central stem and many flower buds which are often described as "aborted" as less than 10% will actually ever flower. There's broccoli bianco in Italy, broccolini and brocoletti and purple sprouting broccoli. There's purple and chedder colored cauliflowers. Then there's a cross in between the two, a broccoflower that is a Romanesco.

Broccoli

Buying: The immature flower buds should be tight and unclosed. Discard any that have yellow flowers. If buying organic broccoli, make sure to soak it in cold salted water for about 5 minutes to get any dirt or criters out from inbetween the buds. 

Storing: Broccoli spoils rather quickly so it is best to use it as soon as possible – best if it is used the day of buying it. Broccoli should be treated delicately like lettuce – store it losely wrapped and kept in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. It still needs room to breathe. Broccoli can be kept in the fridge for up to 5 days and can be frozen if soaked in salted water for 15 minutes, then blanched for 3-4 minutes, drained, cooled and wrapped in a plastic bag.


Medical: high in Vit C, folic acid and iron.

Cooking: Broccoli should be cooked quickly so that it will retain it’s bright green color, it’s agressively green flavor and crisp texture. If broccoli is not used right away and looks a bit tired, soak it in a bowl of ice cold water for 30 minutes to refresh it’s vibrant crispiness. The stalks can also be used, but cook them separately from the head because it is tougher and the cooking times vary. Peel the woody parts of the stalks and cut into slices.  Cut off any leaves and wash before cooking. Nutrtionally-wise, it is best blanched or steamed. It pairs very well with good quality extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Sautee it with minced garlic, red pepper, capers, and anchovy. If the oil is absorbed too quickly, instead of water, try adding a splash of white wine.

Cauliflower

Buying: Cauliflowers leaves should naturally wrap around the head, protecting its creamy white color. Disregard any with large darkened spots or just cut off. The sun spots are generally a sign of sun expoxure. 

Storing: Cauliflower spoils easily. Wrap it tightly and keep it in the drawer of the refrigerator, using it as soon as possible to when you bought it. Cauliflower can be frozen if blanched for 3 minutes in boiling water with a squeeze of lemon in it.

Medical: good source of Vitamin C, good for colon and stomach cancer reduction risks.
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Cooking: Cauliflower has a subtle, nutty flavor that intensifies when cooked. The longer the cauliflower is cooked, the more the mustardy compounds will come out so don't cook it for too long or it will become unpleasantly sulphorous. It can be boiled, but steaming is better as it doesn't lose any flavor into the water. The stem can be eaten as well, but since it is not as large as a broccoli stem it is not usually used. Break the florets into pieces.

Recipes

Broccoli sauteed in wine and garlic
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, sliced
3 lbs broccoli, cut into spears; stalks peeled and cut into strips
1 cup dry white wine (used to love making it with Malvasia when I was living in Emilia-Romagna)
1 tbsp hot red pepper flakes (optional)
zest of lemon and orange
Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add the garlic. When it sizzles, add the broccoli stems for 2 minutes then the broccoli heads, tossing frequently and gradually add the wine to keep the garlic from browning and the stalks are tender, about 8-10 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and zest, tossing well and serve immediately.

Alternatively, I love roasting broccoli (or cauliflower) in the oven with lots of whole garlic cloves, drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil until the broccoli is crispy. Try broccoli with soy sauce and ginger and cauliflower with cumin, coriander and almonds. Great with lemon juice. Yogurt. 

Cauliflower and Cheese Sauce
Me: Do you have that recipe for cauliflower and cheese you used to always make us?
Mum: Yeah. You cook the cauliflower, boil it or steam it. Until it's cooked. Then you make the cheese sauce. Pour it over the cauliflower and broil it until it's all golden and bubbly. 
Me:........I can't write that as a recipe! 

after looking for such recipe that mum could cook without thinking as we grew up eating and loving, she exclaimed that no such recipe existed. 

Joy of Cooking's Cheese Sauce:
Melt 3 tbsp butter in a saucepan. Stir in 3 tbsp flour until blended and then slowly stir in 1 1/2 cups milk. When the sauce is smooth and hot, reduce heat and add 1 cup of mild grated cheese (real cheese?) and season with 1/2 tsp salt, 1/8 tsp paprika, a dash of cayene and 1/2 tsp dry mustard. Stir until all is blended and melted. 

Cream of Cauliflower Soup
2 heads cauliflower (about 4-5 lbs)
4 tbsp unsalted butter
3/4 cup chopped onion
3/4 cup chopped leeks (white and light green parts only)
1/4 tsp curry powder
salt
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups water

Remove the leaves from the cauliflower and cut out the core. Trim stems, but reserve. Trim 2 cups florests for the garnish and set aside. 
Corasely chop remianing cauliflower and stems into 1 inch pieces so they cook evenly. (need about 8 cups). Melt 3 tbsp butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, leeks, curry, and cauliflower with 2 tsp salt then cover and stir occassionally until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Pour in the milk, cream, water and increase the heat to med-high and bring to a simmer for about 30 minutes, skimming off foam from time to time. Then, puree the mixture until smooth and velvety (either in batches in a food processor or with a hand-held immersion blender). Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly. 
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add the vinegar and reserved cauliflower, blanch until tender about 4-6 minutes. The vinegar keeps the cauliflower white. Drain. 
Melt the remaining butter in a pan over med-high heat until gold brown and add the florets, sauteeing until golden brown. Set aside. 
Heat up the soup to serve, adding some water if the consistency seems too thick. Pour the soup into bowls and top off with the cauliflower florets. Drizzle with a little good-quality extra-virgin olive oil and the cauliflower florets. 

Broccoli &Gorgonola Pie
....I'm making this tomorrow
1 lb puff pastry
1-2 heads of broccoli, cut into florets
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 leeks, trimmed, thinly sliced
2/3 cup skim milk
1/3 cup water
1/3 cup tarragon/thyme/oregano, chopped
3 tbsp grainy mustard
1 tsp salt
black pepper
 7 oz Gorgonzola, cut into chunks
1 egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 400F. Roll out 2/3 puff pastry into a circle, 1/8 thick and enough to cover a 10-inch tart pan. Trim off excess pastry. Roll the remaining pastry into a thinner disc, large enough to cover the surface of the pie and lay it on a plate. Lay both shell and lid in the freezer for 10 minutes. Then, line the pastry in the tart pan with parchment paper and fill with baking beans. Bake for about 15-20 minutes until lightly browned. Remove the paper and beans and cook for another 5 minutes, until golden. Leave to cool. 
Meanwhile, cook the broccoli in a large pan in boiling water for 2 minutes, until tender but firm. Drain and rinse well with cold water. Leave to dry. 
Melt the butter in a pan and fry the leeks for about 10-15 minutes until soft but not colored. Add the cream, water, herbs, mustard, s&p. Stir well then remove from heat. 
To assemble, spread the leek mixture over the bottom of the pastry in the tart pan.
 Scatter broccoli on top and press into the leek mixture gently.
 Scatter the Gorgonzola. 
 Brush the rim of the tart with the beaten egg and place the rolled-out pastry lid over the filling. Press around the edges to attach the lid. Trim any excess. Blaze the lid with the beaten egg and bake for about 30 minutes, until golden brown.
 Allow to cool a little bit before serving.  
Delicious!

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