La Cinque Terre

the solo traveler.

A free Monday off of classes clearly calls for a weekend away. Having recently spent a beautifully fun night in Genova, going back to the sun-promising Italian Riviera, La Cinque Terre, was an easily-decided destination. I was more than happy to return and explore the sea coast which is famously known for its panoramic ocean views and pristine pastel villages. I woke up early to catch the train in Colorno - only to miss the connection in Parma because the ticket machine is broken and the fee to ride the train sans-ticket is not worth it. So I looked around for maps of Italy, wondering where the next trains were heading - I had no plans, just a small hostel deposit for one night, and no expectations except for an adventure by myself. Wanting to head south to enjoy the sun and the beach, I eventually found a connection of trains that would lead me to the same planned destination instead of waiting for the direct one a couple of hours later. Like my cooking skills, I find myself happily and generally tending to wing it - I figured I would just recognize when to get off and change trains. As I was sitting on the train, passing beautiful Tuscan towns, not knowing where the train was heading, I was a little hesitant, but at the same time, with no plans, perfectly happy to end up wherever. It would all work out, I believed. And it did. Maybe I had an exasperatedly confused look on my face, but everywhere, there was someone who was willing and trying to help me find my way. I eventually made it to La Spezia, walked in the wrong direction a couple of times, and eventually came across the bus stop for the hostel. There were two girls, who I thought where foreign but actually were on a graduation-gift-trip-across Europe-from California, a mother and two daughters from northern England and a couple from Australia. We were all headed to the same hostel, which happened to be up a windy steep road in the mountains. It was closed until 2:30 so we sat in the courtyard with 5 other waiting australians. 

I really welcomed the time by myself and also to have to socialize with strangers. Both are key factors in traveling alone. Both forced me out of my comfort zone but were also equally rewarding. The two girls from California, the same age as my sister, had been traveling for two weeks and I think enjoyed my “newness” so they adopted me and invited me to hang out with them. We went to the beach with the others and when they separated and went off to find dinner, the three of us wandered around the coast and had a JUG of wine overlooking the sunset high above the glistening ocean. We commiserated in the fact that Americans, especially girls, sound so horribly embarrassing abroad. We, of course, are not. When we missed the last bus back to the hostel (it was early last departure), we had a little liquid courage and went into a gelato store asking the boy who worked there if there was any way to get back to the hostel. “amici? macchina? ostel?” “un momento” 5 minutes later, diego aka spider man, and his friend were driving us back to the hostel - no problem at all.   I think the two young girls might’ve been terrified, even if they didn’t admit it or realize it at the time, but I was an arina-learned seasoned-pro. you gotta do what you gotta do.

(me lagging behind)

La Cinque Terre is an intense hike. It connects five villages along the Italian coast. I may not work out that much, I may have asthma, I may be old, I may have bad knees, I may like to enjoy the view more than staring at the rocks beneath my feet threatening a quick stumble and fall over the steep edge, I may have a dozen more excuses - but it was one strenous, phyiscally exhaustive coastal walk that I don’t know if I will do again. We caught the bus from the hostel at 9:50am and were probably on the trail by 10:15. I think we finished the entire 5-town-hike by 4 or 5 in the evening. maybe later. I wasn’t planning on staying in the same hostel as I wanted to work my way north along the coast, so I had my overnight bag with me - including my laptop because i had homework to do over the weekend - and that, combined with the cloudless mid-day sun, was excruciating. It was really really nice for the two girls to adopt and invite me along with them, but I couldn’t keep up and wanted to keep my own pace and felt as though I was holding them back. the hills went up and down and the stairs were never ending. never ending. look sideways to the sea view, don’t look up - it will depress you. I don’t know how the old people kept up.  

The sun was scorching, the blue sea was sparkling, the sky was cloudless, the yachts were luxurious teases. but we kept going. through pastel-couloured villages, I eventually had to stop at the fourth one to drop off my bag and find a place for the night. vernazza. maybe it was the hour an a half hike there, but it was adorable. I was excited to return and stay the night alone - as nice as it was to have the friendly company. We stopped to energize with some horrible touristy food - really horrible - and as we were trying to find the trail again, amongst the small narrow stairways, we found the group of australians and we finished the trail together. After my lunch-energy diminshed, I honestly wasn’t sure if I would make it the rest of the way - another hour and a half of hiking - but with the support and pressure of the group and the thought of the hopefully-rewarding glut muscles from walking on a real-life stair master all day, I prevailed and had a destination I as determined to reach. Monterrosa - the final fifth village of La Cinque Terra - was a little resorty: the beach was packed with rows of colourful umbrellas and towels clad with tanned bathing suits, but it was more of a feat to get there than what was actually at the destination. oh well, it was worth it. 

 trofie e pesto

After swapping contacts, I went back to Vernazza on my own. A hot shower, a room to myself, a half-bottle of recommended local wine, a seat on the terrace over looking the reflecting sun-setting ocean was really just beautiful. I treated myself to dinner, recommended by the guy from the wine store who was friends with the owner so I introduced myself and he sat me down at a sea-view table. I had my camera and my Italian phrase book out to talk with the waiter who spoke perfect English. I tested my recently acquired wine-tasting skills over a glass of local white wine. vegetable. definitely green bell pepper. It was great to talk to the waiters and some of the other diners who wanted to hear about my trail-hiking experience. it wasn’t very busy on the restaurant’s patio, underneath the colourful umbrellas, and everyone was so friendly in the warm early-summer night. As much as I enjoyed meeting new people, I really enjoyed the time alone. It too, in itself, was an experience for myself. 

The next day, my last day, I had planned to sit on the beach and enjoy the sun to work on my tan for jess’s upcoming graduation pictures, but as my phone alarm was still on an-hour-ahead-crete time, I woke up to the early morning that was filled with overcast clouds. Over a warm cappuccino, I worked on some homework in the hotel restaurant, with the open-kitchen in front of me, admiring the work of the chefs and enjoying the fact that I could watch them like I used to in Cava. I love it. I bought way too many postcards and then went back to the same place where I had dinner the night before because the other one i wanted to try was full. maybe that’s an excuse - maybe it’s because i was more comfortable walking in there alone. The view was ideal, the staff were incredibly friendly, the owner was adorable with colourfully stripped socks and green trainers with a very Italian-agreeable sense of style, and the food was tasty. I even asked if I could work there over the summer. I could learn/speak Italian and it’d be touristy so that means busy. Beautiful area, nice staff, good food. Perfect. I didn’t want to leave. It was so nice, but homework and internet access called me back.