Showing posts with label thomas keller. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thomas keller. Show all posts

Monday, September 5, 2011

What's in Season: Cabbage


Buying: Look for cabbages that have tight heads - even if the outer leaves are a bit floppy, they can be discarded. Leaves should not be discolored, damaged or dried out. If buying from a store, avoid those that look like they have been overly tidied up. 


Storing: Cabbage should be kept cold to retain it’s Vitamin C amount. Savoy cabbage will keep for about a week in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. A cut, unused part of the cabbage should be wrapped tightly in plastic and placed in the fridge. It should be used quickly as cut cabage will continue to lose its beneficial vitamins.


Fact: The world record for the largest cabbage is ranked at 124 lbs from Wales.


Medical: Cabbage retains the most nutrition when eaten raw. It is said to reduce colonic cancer risk, perk up the immune system, and eradicate bacteria. Cabbage juice is apparently good for preventing and curing ulcers.


Cooking: Remove any tough, fiberous outer leaves. Quarter the cabbage, remove the core, and then cut into the desired size slice, either shredded in a food processor or cut with a stainless steel knife (certain phytonutrients react with carbon, so stainless steel will prevent the leaves from turning black). Only cut and wash cabbage right before using it. After cutting the cabbage, it is possible to soak the leaves in cold water to not only keep it crisp, but to draw out some of those sulfurous chemicals that put many people off cabbage.


Cabbage can be steamed or blanched for 6-8 minutes. After washing, shredding and blanching for 1 minute, cabbage can be frozen in plastic bags. Cabbage can be stir-fried, baked, braised, the thick, waxy leaves of cabbage are great for acting as carb-free sandwich wraps, salad cupping, or for stuffing. Add thin cuts of cabbage to soups to sweeten and thicken the broth.


-------
Cabbage-Not-Iceberg Wedge Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Torn Croutons


I was looking through my Ad Hoc at Home cookbook and saw a recipe for the classic Iceberg Lettuce Salad. The quartered lettuce in the picture reminded me of quartered cabbage and decided to make it using cabbage instead. A lot of people from the CSA program choose to swap out their cabbage - either out of distaste, fed up with making coleslaw or just don't know what to do with it so I thought everyone loves Iceberg Salad, there's some reason why it's always on menu's so why not include cabbage as an interesting twist. And what a HIT!


Ok, it looks like a lot of work. And it was. Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home look like easy recipes, but for every ingredient, it's another recipe on another page. I've tried to lay it out below in an easy order.  I love the reward and the therapy of an all-day cook-fest. The remaining aioli can be used for sandwich spreads (I was a little too thrilled with myself at the success of homemade aioli), the garlic confit and oil can be used in other recipes. The blue cheese dressing can be used in salads or for dipping veggies throughout the week.  It might not be the healthiest, but it's a good way to incorporate cabbage into an interesting twist - cabbage is very low in calories - and I left out the bacon. 


Garlic Confit and Oil
2 bulbs garlic, peeled - about one cup
about 2 cups canola oil


cut off the root ends of the garlic cloves. Put in a small sauce pan and add enough oil to cover them by about 1 inch - none should be poking through. POKE. Put the saucepan over med-low heat and cook gently - little bubbles should come up but they shouldn't break the surface - remove from the heat if this happens/adjust heat. Cook for about 40 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes or so until the cloves are completely tender when pierced with a knife tip. Remove from the heat and allow garlic to cool in the oil. Can be refrigerated in a covered container for 1 week. 


Oven Roasted Tomatoes
8 cherry tomatoes, halved (I used a mix of purple cherry and yellow blush tomatoes)
extra virgin olive oil or garlic oil from above
thyme
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 400F. Put the tomato halves on a baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining ingredients. Roast for about 15-20 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and look like they are about to burst. Remove and let come to room temperature. 


Aioli
4 large egg yolks
2 cups Garlic Oil (above)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 teaspoon kosher salt


To easily remove the yolks from the whites, crack in half and slowly dip the yolks into a bowl. You can gently put the yolk into your hand and the whites will run through your fingers. Put the egg yolks in a food processor and process to combine. With the motor running, VERY slowly add the oil through the whole in the center, blending until it is emulsified and thick. Add the lemon juice and salt. Stop the motor as soon as the last drop of oil is added - overworking it will cause it to break. Can be refrigerated covered for up to 1 week. 
*Substitute regular canola oil to make plain mayonnaise*
Blue Cheese Dressing
1 cup Aioli (above)
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/2 cup creme fraiche 
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
3/4 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon parsley
1 teaspoon dill
salt
1 1/2 cups crumbled blue cheese (suggested: Pt. Reyes)
(recipe also calls for 1 teaspoon of both minced chives and mint which I did not have so I added dill which worked great)


Put the aioli in a large bowl then whisk in the buttermilk and remaining ingredients. Additional buttermilk can be used to make it less thick, if desired. Can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 1 week. 
*Buttermilk can be made by putting 1 tablespoon lemon juice into a 1-cup measuring cup and filling the rest with milk, stir, then let sit for 2 minutes. 
Grilled Cabbage Wedges 
1 cabbage, quartered
extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 400F (should be set, from the tomatoes) or light up the grill - which we did. Rub the cut sides of the cabbage with the oil. Put the cabbage quarters on to a large sheet of tin foil, cut side down and drizzle with a little oil and season. Wrap and cover with the foil tightly to seal it.  Bake or grill for about 20 minutes, until the cabbage is tender. Open the foil to let cool. 
Meanwhile...

Torn Croutons
Tear day-old sourdough bread into bite-size pieces. Pour enough Garlic Oil into the bottom of a large pan to cover the bottom. Heat until hot and then add the bread in a single layer. Reduce the heat. Stir the bread in the oil so that it is coated. If you hear sizzling, the heat is too high and the croutons will become too dry - the key is to slow cook them for about 20 minutes so that the croutons absorb the garlicky oil and become crsip and golden brown on all sides. Set aside. 
Arrange the cabbage onto 4 plates or onto a serving dish. Tuck the tomatoes in and around the lettuce (4 haves per person). Sprinkle with the croutons. Spoon some of the dressing over the salad and serve the remaining dressing on the side. 


PHEW!

Saturday, August 20, 2011

What's in Season: Sweet Corn















Buying: Look for husks that are green and fresh looking - they shouldn't be too dried out. The silk should also be fresh looking. Peeling back the husks to look at the tip of the corn is a good indicator: the kernels should be full and evenly spaced. If you dig your nail into a kernel, the liquid should be milky. If it is clear, it is under-ripe, if it is thick, it is over-ripe. Organic corn will not be genetically modified, like many of the corns you will find in the grocery store. 

Storage: Corn is best when eaten right away before the sugars turn to starch, diminishing that sweet sweet taste. This is mostly true for eating corn right off the cob, within 24 hours, but after 3 days, corn will still be edible and tasty enough to cook with. Corn should be refrigerated with the husks still on. The husks will preserve that milky moisture in the kernels. Keep them in the crisper drawer without any strong smelling foods as corn will easily absorb those odors.

Medical: Corn is high in carbohydrates and fiber - chew chew chew. It is apparently a good reducer of cancer risks, heart disease, and tooth cavities. 

Fact: Sweet corn is the sweet variety of maize, which is the starchy produce used to make fodder and used as a grain. The sweet corn that we eat is an immature grain. 
Together, they are the third more important cereal only after wheat and rice. Over 500 different by-products can be used by corn....ever seen the movie King Corn? This also makes sense because corn is a staple in some countries in the form of tortillas, polenta or corn meal as well as snacks in other countries as popcorn or corn tortilla chips. 

I like it's scientific name, zea mays, its kinda like saying maize in a fancy accent.

Cooking: Shuck corn only before using by pulling down, cutting off the stem, and remove the silky threads either by hand or with a vegetable brush. If there is some worm damage - no fear - just cut out that part, the rest of the corn is still good. Wash the corn in cold water. To remove the kernels, place the corn vertically in a large bowl and run a sharp knife down along its length. If making a soup, or if you want some extra milky juice, run the knife down the length of the corn again, but with the dull back of the knife to avoid shaving off the cob. To freeze corn, blanch in boiling water for about 5 minutes, cool and drain then wrap in plastic or tin foil.

Tip from Thomas Keller: After you have removed the kernels from the cob into a bowl, place a smaller bowl of water next to it. Swirl your hand around the corn and the silk will stick to your hand. Remove the silk from your hand by dipping it into the bowl of water. Or running water would work too, I'm sure.

Recipes

Try corn raw; boil it in boiling water for about 10 minutes depending on how soft you like it, remove with tongs, slather with butter and sprinkled with salt; pull back the husks without removing, remove the silks, then pull the husks back up and soak for at least 15 minutes then grill corn in their husks, turning occasionally until charred about 20 minutes; creamed corn; corn bread; corn chowder; corn and black bean salsa; Silver Queen succotash; deep-fried corn fritters; roasted; sprinkled into salads....




Grilled Corn on the Cob with Garlic Butter, Lime Salt and Cotija Cheese
Heat the grill. Pull back the husks without removing them and remove the silks. Pull the husks back up and cover the corn.Soak the corn in a large bowl of water for about 15-30 minutes and then shake off any excess water.Put the corn on the grill, close the cover and cook for about 20 minutes. Remove the husks and roll the corn with garlic butter, sprinkle with lime salt and cotija cheese.

Garlic Butter: 2 sticks of butter, 8 garlic cloves, salt and pepper, blended in a food processer.
Lime Salt: 1/4 cup Maldon sea salt, zest from one lime put into a jar and shaken to mix
Cotija cheese is a hard, salty, grating cheese that doesn't melt when cooked - substitute Parmesean or feta cheese for other great combos
Cheese inspired by restaurants, lime salt from Thomas Kellar.

Do you twirl your corn and eat around the cob or lengthwise like a typewriter?




Stir-Fried Corn
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan and add corn kernels with a tablespoon of chopped ginger, a teaspoon of freshly chopped chili, a handful of chopped parsley, and a couple tablespoons of reduced-sodium soy sauce. Cook until the soy sauce sorta caramelizes so that the corn kernels are sweet n' crunchy. Incredibly easy and Incredibly delicious.
Inspired by Jamie Oliver
Corn & Basil Soup with Stir Fried Corn - two recipes in one dish!

Corn and Basil Soup
2 tablespoons of olive oil
2 small white sweet onions, roughly chopped
2 cloves of garlic
5 ears of corn, kernels removed
1 jalapeno, stem removed and chopped (optional)
a handful of fresh basil
1 1/2 cup vegetable or chicken stock
salt and pepper
Place the kernels into a blender. Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat and add the garlic then add the onion and jalapeno. Stir to coat with the oil and saute until the vegetables are tender and translucent, about 6 minutes.  Remove from heat and add these to the corn in the blender. Blend until smooth, scraping the sides occasionally and pulse to the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the soup from the blender to a large pot over medium heat.  Stir until the soup begins to thicken and then pour in the stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes. Ladle into bowls and can be served garnished with a dollop of corn salsa! Serve hot or cold.

Friday, August 12, 2011

What's in Season: Eggplant

I love eggplant, but I feel as though it's one of those vegetables that people often avoid or are in their list of foods they don't like, like mushrooms. They are a little bitter and have a spongey texture, which I could understand the dislike, but I grew up loving what my mum liked to eat, and eggplant was one of those foods. I thought it was exotic and stood out when listed on a menu and generally could not resist ordering once I saw it.

Buying: Look for eggplants that are heavy for their size with smooth and shiny skin without bruises or wrinkles. Eggplants should be firm - if you press gently on the skin, your thumb indentation should not remain. If the stem looks fresh it is also a good indication of a good eggplant. An alarming amount of varieties, eggplants actually come in a variety of shapes and colors ranging from short and round, long and thing, to bulbous. Don't use eggplant that has bruised brown flesh.

Storing: Eggplants can be kept in a cool space or in the fridge for up to one week. They don't particularly like cold temperatures - brown areas are signs of chilled damage. In the fridge, put them in a dry plastic bag with a paper towel to soak up any moisture. They also should be kept dry as they have thin skins. Cut eggplant should be used immediately.

Medical: Eggplant is rich in dietary fiber and potassium with a very low calorie count. It is high in vitamins and minerals and antioxidents, particularly nasusin which protects the brain.

Fact: Eggplant, botanically a fruit, is also called Aubergine so if you're looking through cookbooks, don't forget to look through the A section if you don't see eggplant under the E's! Eggplant contains a toxic substance called solanine so always cook it!! do not eat it raw.

Cooking: Eggplants do not need to be peeled.  There seems to be some debating on bitterness and salting of eggplants. If frying, eggplant will soak up less oil, making it healthier, if you cut it into the desired slices and sprinkle with salt then sit in a colander to drain for up to an hour. Rub with lemon juice to prevent the flesh turning color from the air exposure. Rinsing it will then remove most of the salt. The salt, is not only known but not proven to reduce bitterness, but also causes the cell walls to collapse as it draws out the water and the oil easily soaks into the air pockets that make the flesh so spongey. I don't always do this, just out of laziness, but I also don't find eggplants to be particularly bitter. Unsalted will keep the flesh a bit meatier, but they only need to be salted if frying the eggplant. Because eggplants soak up the oil, make sure that you use really good olive oil and they will be a great team!  Eggplant can be baked in the oven at 400F for 30-40 minutes, let cool then scoop out the flesh (Eggplant also can explode in the oven, so be sure to prick it with a sharp knife a couple times before!); sauteed in oil until hot, tender, and browned; grilled (brush the skin with oil so it doesn't dry out) with other vegs in some tin foil or on kebab skewers. 

Did I mention I love egglpalnt? here are some of my favorite recipes:

Thomas Kellar's Ad Hoc Summer Vegetable Gratin

3 large Roma tomatoes
1 med yellow squash
1 med zucchini
1 long eggplant
extra virgin olive oil
1 large red onion
3 garlic cloves, grated with a microplane
salt
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp thyme
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano
1/2 cup panko (he used bread crumbs)

i don't know why it's sideways....

Preheat the oven to 350F.  Slice the tomatoes into 1/4 inch slices - discarding the ends. Slice the squash, zucchini and eggplant into similar sized slices, about 1/4 inch thick. Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Reduce to med-low and add the onions and garlic and season with salt. Cook without browning, until the onions are translucent, for about 20 minutes while stirring occasionally. Stir in 1 tbsp of thyme. Combine the squash, zucchini and eggplant in a large bowl, toss with olive oil and season with salt. Do the same the tomatoes. Combine the Parmesean, panko and thyme in a small bowl. Spread the onion mix into a 13X9 dish or a 13 inch round baking dish. Layer the vegetables, working on the diagonal. Arrange the zucchini overlapping, then the squash slightly overlapping the zucchini, followed by the eggplant and then the tomatoes. Sprinkle the cheese mixture on top. Bake for 1-11/2 hours, until the vegetables are completely tender. Remove from the oven and allow it to rest for 10 minutes as the broiler heats up. Place the gratin under the broil just before serving to brown the top - but don't forget about it!! 
pre-baked-shot.

I fell in love with this dish on one of our trips to Italy. This particular trip was to the Amalfi Coast where, surrounded by a ton of fresh-caugh fish off the coast, I was eating a ton of vegetarian dishes. This is Mario Batalli's version of Pasta alla Norma from Molto Italiano.

2 lbs small-med eggplant, cut 1/4 inch slices
salt and pepper
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 pld penne
2 cups tomato sauce
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino romano
10 fresh basil leaves, freshly torn
8 oz ricota salata for grating (sub young pecorino or provolone)

boil 6 qts of water with 2 tbsp of water. Preheat the oven to 375F. In a 10-12 in sate pan, heat 3 tbsp of the oil over med-high heat until almost smoking. Working in batches, saute the eggplant, seasoning them with salt and pepper, turning once, until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a paper-lined plate to drain. Cook the penne in the boiling water for 2 minutes short of the instructions - keep it quite firm. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain well, place in a large bowl, and toss with 1 cup of the tomato sauce. Grease a 9 by 12 inch baking dish with 1 tbsp oil and cover the bottom of it with 1/4 cup of the tomato sauce, then add half of the pasta. Arrange the eggplant slices, overlapping slightly, on top of the pasta. Dot about 1/4 cup of the tomato sauce over the eggplant and top with half o the pecorino and half of the basil. Top the remaining pasta, arrange the remaining eggplant over it and then the remaining tomato sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining pecorino and basil and drizzle with 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Bake for 45 minutes, let rest for 10 minutes before serving and grate ricotta salata over it. 


I have this combo (Eggplant lentil soup is also delicious :)  Eggplant Lentil Salad

1 large eggplant (2 lbs)
1/4 extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp crushed red pepper
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup French green lentils
2 1/2 cups water
3 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped parsley
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 450F. Prick the eggplant and place in a baking dish. Roast for about 40 minutes, turning once or twice until tender. Cool. Meanwhile, in a pan, heat 2 tbsp oil and add the cumin seeds and crushed red pepper. Heat to release their flavors, about 1 minutes then add the garlic, stirring for about 30 seconds and then add the lentils and the water. Season with salt and bring to a boil. Then simmer for about 40 minutes, covered, until the water is absorbed. The lentils should be tender but not mushy. Scoop the eggplant out, removing the skins, and chop the flesh. Drain it, if necessary, to remove excess liquid. Add the eggplant and the lentils to a bowl and mix in the lemon juice and parsley and remaining 1/4 cup of oil. Season with salt and pepper.