Friday, August 12, 2011

What's in Season: Eggplant

I love eggplant, but I feel as though it's one of those vegetables that people often avoid or are in their list of foods they don't like, like mushrooms. They are a little bitter and have a spongey texture, which I could understand the dislike, but I grew up loving what my mum liked to eat, and eggplant was one of those foods. I thought it was exotic and stood out when listed on a menu and generally could not resist ordering once I saw it.

Buying: Look for eggplants that are heavy for their size with smooth and shiny skin without bruises or wrinkles. Eggplants should be firm - if you press gently on the skin, your thumb indentation should not remain. If the stem looks fresh it is also a good indication of a good eggplant. An alarming amount of varieties, eggplants actually come in a variety of shapes and colors ranging from short and round, long and thing, to bulbous. Don't use eggplant that has bruised brown flesh.

Storing: Eggplants can be kept in a cool space or in the fridge for up to one week. They don't particularly like cold temperatures - brown areas are signs of chilled damage. In the fridge, put them in a dry plastic bag with a paper towel to soak up any moisture. They also should be kept dry as they have thin skins. Cut eggplant should be used immediately.

Medical: Eggplant is rich in dietary fiber and potassium with a very low calorie count. It is high in vitamins and minerals and antioxidents, particularly nasusin which protects the brain.

Fact: Eggplant, botanically a fruit, is also called Aubergine so if you're looking through cookbooks, don't forget to look through the A section if you don't see eggplant under the E's! Eggplant contains a toxic substance called solanine so always cook it!! do not eat it raw.

Cooking: Eggplants do not need to be peeled.  There seems to be some debating on bitterness and salting of eggplants. If frying, eggplant will soak up less oil, making it healthier, if you cut it into the desired slices and sprinkle with salt then sit in a colander to drain for up to an hour. Rub with lemon juice to prevent the flesh turning color from the air exposure. Rinsing it will then remove most of the salt. The salt, is not only known but not proven to reduce bitterness, but also causes the cell walls to collapse as it draws out the water and the oil easily soaks into the air pockets that make the flesh so spongey. I don't always do this, just out of laziness, but I also don't find eggplants to be particularly bitter. Unsalted will keep the flesh a bit meatier, but they only need to be salted if frying the eggplant. Because eggplants soak up the oil, make sure that you use really good olive oil and they will be a great team!  Eggplant can be baked in the oven at 400F for 30-40 minutes, let cool then scoop out the flesh (Eggplant also can explode in the oven, so be sure to prick it with a sharp knife a couple times before!); sauteed in oil until hot, tender, and browned; grilled (brush the skin with oil so it doesn't dry out) with other vegs in some tin foil or on kebab skewers. 

Did I mention I love egglpalnt? here are some of my favorite recipes:

Thomas Kellar's Ad Hoc Summer Vegetable Gratin

3 large Roma tomatoes
1 med yellow squash
1 med zucchini
1 long eggplant
extra virgin olive oil
1 large red onion
3 garlic cloves, grated with a microplane
salt
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp thyme
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano
1/2 cup panko (he used bread crumbs)

i don't know why it's sideways....

Preheat the oven to 350F.  Slice the tomatoes into 1/4 inch slices - discarding the ends. Slice the squash, zucchini and eggplant into similar sized slices, about 1/4 inch thick. Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Reduce to med-low and add the onions and garlic and season with salt. Cook without browning, until the onions are translucent, for about 20 minutes while stirring occasionally. Stir in 1 tbsp of thyme. Combine the squash, zucchini and eggplant in a large bowl, toss with olive oil and season with salt. Do the same the tomatoes. Combine the Parmesean, panko and thyme in a small bowl. Spread the onion mix into a 13X9 dish or a 13 inch round baking dish. Layer the vegetables, working on the diagonal. Arrange the zucchini overlapping, then the squash slightly overlapping the zucchini, followed by the eggplant and then the tomatoes. Sprinkle the cheese mixture on top. Bake for 1-11/2 hours, until the vegetables are completely tender. Remove from the oven and allow it to rest for 10 minutes as the broiler heats up. Place the gratin under the broil just before serving to brown the top - but don't forget about it!! 
pre-baked-shot.

I fell in love with this dish on one of our trips to Italy. This particular trip was to the Amalfi Coast where, surrounded by a ton of fresh-caugh fish off the coast, I was eating a ton of vegetarian dishes. This is Mario Batalli's version of Pasta alla Norma from Molto Italiano.

2 lbs small-med eggplant, cut 1/4 inch slices
salt and pepper
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 pld penne
2 cups tomato sauce
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino romano
10 fresh basil leaves, freshly torn
8 oz ricota salata for grating (sub young pecorino or provolone)

boil 6 qts of water with 2 tbsp of water. Preheat the oven to 375F. In a 10-12 in sate pan, heat 3 tbsp of the oil over med-high heat until almost smoking. Working in batches, saute the eggplant, seasoning them with salt and pepper, turning once, until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a paper-lined plate to drain. Cook the penne in the boiling water for 2 minutes short of the instructions - keep it quite firm. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain well, place in a large bowl, and toss with 1 cup of the tomato sauce. Grease a 9 by 12 inch baking dish with 1 tbsp oil and cover the bottom of it with 1/4 cup of the tomato sauce, then add half of the pasta. Arrange the eggplant slices, overlapping slightly, on top of the pasta. Dot about 1/4 cup of the tomato sauce over the eggplant and top with half o the pecorino and half of the basil. Top the remaining pasta, arrange the remaining eggplant over it and then the remaining tomato sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining pecorino and basil and drizzle with 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Bake for 45 minutes, let rest for 10 minutes before serving and grate ricotta salata over it. 


I have this combo (Eggplant lentil soup is also delicious :)  Eggplant Lentil Salad

1 large eggplant (2 lbs)
1/4 extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp crushed red pepper
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup French green lentils
2 1/2 cups water
3 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped parsley
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 450F. Prick the eggplant and place in a baking dish. Roast for about 40 minutes, turning once or twice until tender. Cool. Meanwhile, in a pan, heat 2 tbsp oil and add the cumin seeds and crushed red pepper. Heat to release their flavors, about 1 minutes then add the garlic, stirring for about 30 seconds and then add the lentils and the water. Season with salt and bring to a boil. Then simmer for about 40 minutes, covered, until the water is absorbed. The lentils should be tender but not mushy. Scoop the eggplant out, removing the skins, and chop the flesh. Drain it, if necessary, to remove excess liquid. Add the eggplant and the lentils to a bowl and mix in the lemon juice and parsley and remaining 1/4 cup of oil. Season with salt and pepper. 

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