Monday, December 31, 2012
Friday, December 28, 2012
Next 37 km
I forgot to post this awhile ago, but while I was on Fraser Island, bumping along in the back of the 4X4, we passed a road sign just like the one posted above and I thought to myself, what animal is that before I realised that it was a cautionary sign for an upcoming bump in the road. There are so many animal signs in Australia, and we saw so much WILD LIFE on Fraser Island, that it was a natural assumption to immediately think it was a sign to watch out for an animal. Kinda like the one below.
Michal Comes to Brisbane.
Michal comes to Brisbane! Michal comes to Brisbane!
I said earlier, third time's a charm in Brisbane.
Carly: Does your friend have a place to stay yet? She is more than welcome to stay here.
Me: Really? That's so nice, I'll ask her.
Carly: Yeah no problem, you can choose who you want to sleep next to you on the pull-out.
Me: OoOh Really?!
Michal just couldn't not come to Brisbane. It was destined for us to meet up one last time again in Australia. From the very first city of my travels, to the very last. Carly had also finally heard back from one of the hairdressers she had sent her CV to and asked to come in for an interview, so we had more than one reason to treat ourselves out to dinner. We went down the road in Woolongabba to Chalk Hotel, which after walking into and up to the upstairs dining area and bar I realised I had been there before when I visited Ted and his friends in October. It was an odd realisation to be in an area I currently knew so familiarly but remember arriving to the same place in a taxi, thinking it was in the middle of nowhere Brisbane, a place I could never find again or would never see again - but here it was. It happened to be a burger + Jug dinner deal and trivia night. It definitely wasn't the $19 special or the burger that won us over, but the jug sealed the deal.
I don't think any of us actually grasped the concept of having a jug of beer to ourselves as we placed our orders. It was the biggest meal I had eaten in ages. And we didn't win trivia. We didn't even come close. But it was a lot of fun.
An English, two Scottish, and an Irish walk into a loud, dark bar....all we need is a Welsh and the jibber jabber confusion of accents that make up our conversation, or what we think is a conversation, would be complete.
case in point: Wild Hogs in Scottish sounds exactly like Whale Talks. Like that is even the name of a movie. But it is what I heard, and what I wrote down diligently, nodding my head convincingly as Jonny so confidently proclaimed the name of the movie to answer the trivia question. If only Dory was there to translate.
Angle Triangle also got us a point.
Earlier that day, I had run into Inken randomly again on the exact same corner of Elizabeth and Edward Street in Brisbane as we were crossing the street heading in opposite directions both times. The second time, with Lovina, they told me they were leaving their jobs at the call centre to move to the Outback to work at a hostel. It happened to be their last night in the big city of Brisbane, in urban civilisation, so they were going out. I promised them I would meet them out for one last good bye, one last separation from Team Horsefly. Throughout all of our Australian travels, this would be the last until we all meet up again in another foreign country. So, Michal and I sauntered into town in the dark along the river with the city lights reflecting in the calm water. We chatted without reserve, catching up on all we hadn't emailed about. It was like we hadn't been apart since Surfers Paradise a month ago.
Brisbane doesn't have a big night life scene and as we arrived into the quiet streets, we were lead to what seemed to be the only bar open. As it was the only bar open in town, it was absolutely packed.
Met up with Chris again. But, what's with that guy's shirt?
Bitch, please.
Reunited. With some goober (not Chris).
The following day, Michal and I were left by the busy worker bees to enjoy the sun. We wandered hungrily along Grey Street, unsure of what type of food would satisfy insatiable us. I couldn't stop thinking about noodles and we agreed on a little Japanese place with outdoor seating along the sidewalk that advertised agreeably cheap prices. We sat down outside with a menu until I realised the price for the same exact thing was $4 dearer than what was on the sign. It looked like the same restaurant, the staff seemed to be working at both, the food was similar if not the same, but we couldn't figure out why the prices were different. Being the cheap, fastidious backpacker, I refused to pay more for what we had thought we were committing to. For $4 less, we just moved two tables down, with the same sidewalk views, had a limited food selection instead of the menu-book, and just had to order at the counter instead of being served table-side. This is what happens when you're on a budget, you only see prices and demand the most bang for your buck. Sure I could have had my usual piece of toast and cheese and Michal could have had her cup o'soup diet, but please, this was Michal and Shauna reunited for one last time in Australia.
I could have easily and happily had a second bowl of noodles if we weren't heading over to the lagoon to sunbathe.
fake lagoon.
One last sunbathe to soak up the Australian sun before it would freeze off in the Irish winter winds. One last sunbathe meant one last burn and a blistered sunburnt lip.
When in doubt, the pool can also be a refrigerator. Just don't leave the guests unattended.
No diving, Carly.
I felt so lucky to have such good friends to laugh with and friends from around the world who I met around Australia who were now friends with each other.
Michael, Joan, Carlos, and Shaun.
I didn't want to say goodbye. I had met Michal towards the beginning of my trip, and here she was towards the end. Even if we hadn't traveled the same trip together, she was always there. She was like the boyfriend you keep because it's safe, the one you stay together with so you don't have to be completely alone. Like the high school boyfriend you don't break up with when you go off to Uni until you have securely found your place with your new friends...and a new boyfriend. The one that even if you're not together, you know he's only a phone call away, there to text whenever, or to talk to when you go home at night. Even when I didn't have that boyfriend anymore, and was traveling utterly alone, Michal was still there. Michal was always a phone call, a text, an email, a Facebook message away reassuringly telling me that I would love the Fraser Island trip and Whitsunday sailing, giving me suggestions of places she had previously been to as I arrived in a new place alone, sharing with me her own solo escapades as we ventured in opposite directions amongst the country, but then somehow managing to make plans with each other to meet up again. I hope she stays in her beloved Sydney, I hope she still gets to travel the rest of the world despite her love for Sydney, I hope she moves to London to live near me. I hope she even gives sake another chance. I know we'll stay in touch. I know we'll see each other again. Somewhere in this world. With a glass, no a bottle of wine, to catch up and laugh until we have stitches or pee ourselves.
Christmas in Brisbane.
My lovely Scottish house mates wanted to have a typical Australian Christmas, which involved an Australian Christmas tree. They decided they wanted to make, or drink, their Christmas tree with green VB cans, or really, any can that was green. Possibly some red ones and the shown blue ones to look like decorations. We brewed over endless ideas and possibilities of how to build it, what shape and 3D form it could take, white wine angels on top, tinsel and lights delicately draped around it, whether or not to use tape or just balance them one on top of the other and hope the breeze of the AC wouldn't blow them over. I contributed towards my free rent with beers, with a deeper understanding that this was part of their thirst-quenching Christmas spirit and the start of an intoxicating Australian tradition. I wouldn't get to see the final product of this Very Bogan Christmas Tree, nor would I be around to finish the rest of the chocolates in my advent calendar, but I am sure it came fully into a boozy fruition.
Dear Australia,
I really like you. I like you a lot.
Love, Shauna
I didn't think it would be hard to find a job, given most places usually hire extra staff around the holiday season, but I couldn't find any job. I didn't even get any responses back. There were no appropriate jobs posted on seek or indeed or gumtree. I blindly wrote to places of interest, in hopes that they might like my resume or just need some extra help. I wrote to all the Irish pubs in the city - just to confuse them with my wonky accent. I printed out my resume and went around to all the hostels to ask if they were hiring. Everyone said, come back in the new year. I had a place to stay for free (I paid rent with tree-building beer cans) but I couldn't justify staying in Australia for a month, just for the sake of seeing out the rest of my visa, if I wasn't working and I was done with traveling. So the idea that was already planted in Dad's head and buried in the back of my head, began to flourish. It was hard to cancel New Years Eve plans and to think about not only leaving my friends, but the sunshine warmth of summer and to finally leave behind the entire year that was my Australian Adventure. But, once the idea developed into a realisation that I could spend Christmas with my family in Ireland, I was all set and started to check out. The fact that I could pull of a surprise and not tell Jess I was coming made it all the more exciting. Once I realised all this, I went back to happy holiday mode and decided to just enjoy and take advantage of the rest of my time in Australia, trying not to spend the dim remainder of my money, and to soak up as much sun as possible. I think also the fact that I was going to Donegal rather than flying back to America made leaving somewhat more ok. It wouldn't be easy to leave, but I was actually really really excited.
* I think I should buy a Magic 8 ball as my indecisive compass.
Thursday, December 20, 2012
X Factor in Brisbane.
Carly and I were walking into the city centre one day when we heard screams. Screams that came in waves like voices on a roller coaster. As we wandered down the pedestrian mall, the screams got louder and we could see a swarm of people - mostly teeny bopper girls. "It must be Jason Bieber" I murmered to Carly. Two seconds later, a guy behind us repeated the same thing.
It was however, after a couple of staring from standing on a bench and not recognizing anyone in the crowd, we asked the person next to us who said it was a group from X Factor. I remember watching X Factor in Melbourne and remembered that some of the contestants who didn't make it into the single finals were made into a boy band group by Ronan Keating.
They looked familiar after that, but still hadn't heard any of their songs and wondered how terrible it must be to have to work their way through this crowd of screaming, grasping girls in the sweaty heat of the day.
It was however, after a couple of staring from standing on a bench and not recognizing anyone in the crowd, we asked the person next to us who said it was a group from X Factor. I remember watching X Factor in Melbourne and remembered that some of the contestants who didn't make it into the single finals were made into a boy band group by Ronan Keating.
They looked familiar after that, but still hadn't heard any of their songs and wondered how terrible it must be to have to work their way through this crowd of screaming, grasping girls in the sweaty heat of the day.
When it Rains, it Pours.
Carly and I tried desperately to go Christmas shopping in Brisbane. Desperately I mean because we bought nothing and because it was in the pouring rain, but we persevered. We walked for about half an hour in the rain until we got into the centre of the city, completely drenched, but unwavered. We wandered in and out of the shops before we decided we would be better off purchasing a drink. So we got out of the rain and sat down with the workers, who weren't working because it was raining (!??!) and enjoyed ourselves. Just as we were leaving, even though the sky was bright, it was heavily downpouring. We sighed and said, you know what happens when it rains? You get wet.
Bar artwork.
It's really hard to feel like it's Christmas or get in the holiday spirit when it is sunny, 30 degrees CELCIUS, and feels like you are on a summer holiday. The tourist shops offering Australia memorabilia are filled with crap no one really wants. Most of the stores in the shopping arcades are over priced and the rest of them can be found at home. There aren't any Australian trends or anything particularly "Australian" to bring back as gifts. I found it incredibly difficult to not only to get in the mood but to find any motivation for buying worthwhile gifts. I sent some knick-knacks to Ireland to say, I'm thinking of you, wish I was there, I have some more time to buy you some proper gifts ie in the after-Christmas sales, but that mentality soon changed. I always thought that I didn't care where I was for Christmas as long as I was on the beach with a cocktail. But after traveling up the coast for a month and seeing beach after beach, I was over the beach idea. I wanted to go home. Home? I don't know where home is. I wanted to be with my family.
Back in Brisbane and the Gold Coast.
After Cairns, I arrived back in Brisbane for the third time. The third time is really a charm; I liked it even more. It was time to find a holiday job to pay back for all the traveling. I was flying out of Brisbane so it was the most likely spot to go. Although in hindsight it didn't make sense at all. I had two weeks until Christmas, in which I was meant to go to Sydney and then had made plans to spend New Years there too, then after I would have another two weeks in Brisbane before my visa was up and I had to leave. I probably should have considered going to Sydney to find a job, but I found it incredibly expensive and I had more friends in Brisbane and the nearby Gold Coast. I booked into a hostel for 2 nights, the cheapest I could find, which was a 20 person dorm room. 20 person! It actually wasn't so bad. There were two bunks against every wall, and I found a bed on the very last wall with window views so, although it was loud with a combination of 20 people coming and going all the time, it felt quite private just sharing with 3 other beds. Oh, the life of a backpacker. Unfortunately, because it was summertime in Brisbane with high's of 30's, and with 20 people in a room, it was incredibly sweaty-roasting hot. I could barely breathe and ended up going to sit outside in the bar's common area and chatting with one of the guys from my row of bunks. I wasn't in the mood to be out, or drinking, or chatting, but anything was better than being in the hot room, unable to sleep, so I just watched all the other partiers dancing the night away.
The following day, after applying and searching for jobs, literally anything I could find even under and over-qualified for, I met up with Carly and Jonny at their hostel, laying out by the pool and drinking cool drinks.
Carly by the way is a phenomenal diver.
tourists.
I told them about the free tacos at my hostel and we went back there. It happened to be idol karaoke night. carly can sing. jonny just drank. i did both.
Carly and Jonny moved into their own flat a couple days later. The very day they moved in, they invited me to come stay with them. They almost insisted. The conversation went like this:
"You're here until Christmas, right?""Yeah, in Brisbane until then, but I wouldn't possibly stay with you for that long. Just a few days would be so nice and generous of you."
"What! No! Stay until Christmas! Stay as long as you want! My cousin is coming on the 18th, I will sleep on the pull out couch with him and you can sleep in the bed. No really, we want you to stay."
"You guys are nuts. I love you." x
I was hoping to get a job in a hostel where I would get free accommodation (and wouldn't have to be in C&J's way) and most hostels also provide free meals, laundry, and wi fi. But until I found a job, I was on holiday. The sun was warm, the tan was improving, the city was gleaming, and I only had less than a month left to enjoy my time in Australia.
My couch surfing host, I mean friend, Paul had never been to Brisbane even though he had been in Australia for the last eleven months and only lived an hour away in the Gold Coast. I had no job or plans, he had nothing to do on Friday night so he decided to come up for a visit. Cue: giggles. He loved Brisbane. He loved not seeing muscle heads in tank tops, he loved the fact that we could just go to bars instead of paying to get into night clubs. There isn't a huge night life scene in Brisbane, at least not from what I experienced, so the following day, with no job and no plans and just a $20 bus ride, I decided to go back to Surfers Paradise. Hanging out with Paul as he led his bar crawl, I was so spoilt and didn't pay a penny the entire night. As it happens when traveling up and down the coast, you run into people you've met before, even if it's been a couple weeks and even if you can't pinpoint where you met them. I got a text from someone I had met a month ago from the beginning of my trip in Byron Bay and then literally bumped into someone I had met in Airlie Beach. Such a way to come full circle.
I was so lucky with my first couch surfing experience. I haven't done it since - I've tried but it hasn't worked out - but I made a really good friend from meeting and trusting a complete stranger. We kept in touch and met up again, and I hope that we will do it again, in Miami, New York, Asia, Europe or wherever we are.
What really delighted me about the actual trip down to Surfers Paradise is that I just had a shoulder bag. Everyone else getting off the bus was waiting wearily while their backpacks were being pulled out from under the bus and then had to figure out how to get to their next hostel and start all over again in a new place. I didn't miss that at all. I absolutely loved the traveling that I had just done, but I was also glad to be done with it for now. Walking straight off the bus and knowing exactly where we were going was such an incredible feeling, to be with a local, to not have to feel lost and alone, to be confident in already knowing your surroundings - it may sound weird, but it put a little bounce in my step.
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Monday, December 10, 2012
People never explain to you exactly what they think and feel and how their thoughts and feelings work, do they? They don’t have time. Or the right words. But that’s what books do. It’s as though your daily life is a film in the cinema. It can be fun, looking at those pictures. But if you want to know what lies behind the flat screen you have to read a book. That explains it all.
A WEEK IN DECEMBER, SEBASTIAN FAULKS
It Took Me Only 2 Hours to Fly From Cairns Back Down The Coast It Took Me 28 Days To Get Up To.
Leaving Cairns, I am really happy. It's just a 2 hour plane ride back to where I (kinda) started a month ago. I'm absolutely delighted with the trip I've just had up the coast, as with the entire past eleven months in Australia. I honestly can't believe it, but it feels a bit as though my time in this country is done, even though I still have a little over a month left here. Although I don't want to leave, especially leave the down-under weather, I feel as though the year can be completed whole-heartedly contently. I know I said before that if I could do it again, I would have done everything differently, but regret none of it. Knowing that now is all part of the traveling adventure and self enlightenment.I have experienced a tremendous amount; I have seen iconic and stunning places; I have endured and persevered, emotionally and physically; I have grown up; I have made necessary sacrifices and worthy splurges; I have been blessed with the utmost kindest generosity and welcoming hospitableness; I have more confidence and am not only more comfortable with myself, but proud of what I've done to get there; I am still as indecisive but maybe a bit wiser; I have learnt things about myself, other people, other places and cultures and how to travel; I have seen places I have wanted to check off an invisible list of places to see, but realised that it is all about the people you are with who make the memories you will remember about the place; I have eternally grateful, appreciative, and indebted for having all these opportunities; I have met so many incredibly wonderful people that I truly feel grateful to have in my life and make me want to continue to travel - not only for the thrill of meeting new friends, but to travel to where these new friends are now to meet up again; and most importantly, I have fulfilled my 3rd grade dream. All of this with no plan except a one way ticket. The year at UNISG might still be my favourite, but this past year has been solidly the best one for me personally. It makes me excited and want to travel more, to see more of the world, to meet new people and visit friends around the world, and test more of myself in new situations to see how it will mould me into who I am supposed to be.
Since I know my time is coming to an end here with just a few weeks to enjoy the warmth of summer and spend the remaining time with my friends, I think I have nearly checked-out. When you know something is within your grasp, even if you don't want to leave, you start to look towards the future, to what's next, and get excited to go home to bask in the little things that have become luxuries to the backpacker. Despite everything I just mentioned from the last year here that I am going to honestly miss, and even though I still don't know where home is, I cannot wait to see my family.
So, as I fly over the Great Barrier Reef again (not as cool as my Whitsunday trip, but still really amazing to see from so high up) with my window seat overlooking the same coast I just traveled by ground up, it feels like the perfect ending.
Cairns.
On the road again. This time as far north I'm going to go on this Australian Adventure trip: to Cairns. Hopefully I'll come back again to see the GBR and rain forest but I still have another month left, who knows what will happen! I booked a 2 hour bus ride to Cairns. ONLY 2 HOURS! Only really because it was the cheapest option to fly back south. I looked into every option, comparing prices and times and destinations but this just seemed to be the easiest, and plus it was a chance to see Cairns, being so close to it, rather than backtrack down the coast again. The bus from Mission Beach would have gone from 9:25am until 12:30pm the following day. More than 24 hours on a bus? I had reached my limit.
On the bus, I was actually looking forward to Cairns more than I thought I would, but hopefully not regretting having more time to spend there. If I left when I had planned to, there was still the opportunity to do my farm work in Mt Tamborine outside of the Gold Coast, so I felt as though I needed to get back. It would have been nice to go on a boat to see more of the reef, but I didn't really have much time.

I ended up really liking Carins. I didn't have any expectations for it, nor was I planning on ever going there, but even if it was just the cheapest option to fly out of, I'm glad I went. It was odd to be back in a city again, although it's not that big. It was a bit like an old western town. The streets were lit up with bright lights from restaurants and cafes where diners were enjoying the night's warm weather sitting outside. I watched them all, hungrily, as I trudged through with my backpack, trying not to knock anyone over. It's funny not having eaten out in a while because when I look at menus all I see are prices. I decided to go out and check out the city. One of the girls in my room was a 33 year old Italian and we went to get our free meal voucher at the Woolshed, as provided by our hostel.
And I must not forget to mention, everyone was commenting on my lovely sunburn from my 3 hour walk in Mission Beach. It surprisingly didn't hurt or give me any chills, just a lot of stares.
I went for a walk at dusk along the water, past the lagoon and around the harbour. It was really pretty and there were a lot of nice looking hotels, apartments and restaurants where "real" people were eating. It was kinda nice to not see backpackers.
I also stopped in one of the museums and paid $5 to see Goya's Los Caprichos drawings.
BATS LOVE CAIRNS. It's almost creepy how many thousands of bats there were flying from one side of the city to the other. And I mean hundreds and thousands. There were big ones with pointy wing spans, and little baby ones that would fly closer to the ground in circles. Apparently there is one set of trees where they sleep during the day and then flight across the city at night to another fruit grove where they feast in the dark.
And as appropriate as can be, on the very last night of my trip up the coast, I ran into again two English blokes who I had met on my very first stop way back in Byron Bay. They were the two drinking goon at 10am on the bus to Nimbin, who I later saw in Rainbow Beach and again in Airlie Beach. It's really funny how you run into people unexpectedly, but always pleasantly. A familiar face in the unknown. Always a laugh that says, "you again!"
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