Our Last Day.

The last day of classes started with prosecco at 10am. We had a last-day-of-class brunch filled with pastry goodies and mimosas as the last group presented their Tuscany reports. All of them were incredibly interesting - I paid attention despite my pre-presentation nerves; there gets to be a point where you just to care anymore, it's going to happen no matter what...maybe it was the prosecco. I was second to last to go and although I found my topic rather interesting, I don't think the professor did as he started to pack up to go. Oh, well, I still got a good grade! After that, we had History of Refrigeration class. Quite intriguing, actually, but I'm still not sure how that guy got into his profession...Half way through, Asher, Jules and I took a quick break to sneak up to the top of the Reggia and enjoyed the view.

Oh, Colorno. You look even smaller from up high. 

After class, we had a holiday party - not a good-bye party. Jules and Asher cooked dozens of hamburgers for us and the tutors brought out the wine. I played a slideshow video I had made for my friends and then it was off for One Last Night at the Pub. Dancing on the tables One Last Time, of course.

 going to miss you guys.

 no tears.

 Asher the DJ.

baci baci.

Massimo Bottura: "Keep your feet grounded but your mind open. Don't let them cut your wings. If you grow up too fast the wind will blow you away."

One of our last classes before the end of the year and one of our favourites, was taught by Chef Massimo Bottura who owns Osteria Francescana in Modena - voted by San Pelligrino as the best restaurant in Italy and #6 in the world. He taught us that dishes are chef's answers, they are expressions about creation that should spark interest, passion, and emotion that cry and speak to the soul not the palate. His philosophy of cooking is more about the expression, not the technique - although I'm pretty sure he's got the technique down to utter perfection. This artistic influence he believes in is essential for humanity he says because it is a means of communication. It's quite unsurprising that in 2000, Time Magazine supposedly named one of his creations one of the top 10 dishes that changed modern cuisine. His dish, ice cream foie gras terrine, was a block of his homemade foie gras, delicately carved out to be filled with 45 year old balsamic vinegar, then dipped and dressed in Napoli almonds and Piemonte hazelnuts. It is then put on a small wooden stick to imitate an ice cream bar. like a strawberry shortcake ice cream bar...but not pink.   

 While he was making this, he passed around his family's own 45 year old balsamic vinegar, which is good for digestion, and we were instructed to "chew" to incorporate the air and this way it won't feel acidic even though it is 7% acidity.

 Then we got to taste the foie gras...

"feeding hungry minds, not empty bellies"

 Next, he made a recreation of bollito misto, a typical Northern Italian dish meaning boiled mixed meats. He was inspired by the 59th Street playground in New York City where he was playing with his young son. The meat, vacuum cooked instead of boiled to keep the flavours, represented the skyscrapers, the parsley air foam was the tree tops, and the salted capers and anchovies were the people on the street. Imagine having that creativity. I wish skyscrapers motivated me to create a masterpiece.

photo thanks to Diana

He was interested in us and teaching us and his enthusiasm, passion, energy, generosity, and talent were nothing short of inspiring. 

"God made food; the devil the cooks." — James Joyce (Ulysses)

One of our classes was in the culinary school ALMA taught by Chef Bruno Ruffini. The lesson was based around the architecture of cuisine: stock. Even more basic than knowing have to make a sauce, according to Escoffier, a cook can't do anything serious without knowing a serious stock. Chef Bruno told us that we have to be worried while cooking, almost paranoid because you have to pay attention and be patient throughout the cooking process regardless of your skills. The skills don't matter in the final dish if you haven't the quality ingredients (both cut and choice) in which to make it.

These are necessarily recipes, just some good tips to consider when making stock/broth, sauces and emulsions.

FONDI DI CUCINA

a fondo is a starting point - anything can be enriched with this base.

1. FONDO BIANCO

• use veal bones which include the knees and legs with a little bit of meat attached because the richest part of the bone marrow is in tissue/collagen 
• use 1/3 vegetables to the weight of the bones (300g veg = 1 kilo bones)
• dice the mirapoix vegetables (carrots, celery, onion) into 1cm cuts and cover with cold water. Whole vegetables poked with cloves can be used to create a deeper flavour for a soup broth for example rather than a stock. But cut vegetables simmered for so long will melt and turn the broth cloudy. 
• add a bouquet grain (top leaf of the leek which is most fibrous and last longer than the white part with inside: bay leaf, parsley stems which are more aromatic and won't melt like the leaves, and a thyme sprig) tie a string around it and tie it to the pot handle like a fishing rod. Fine herbs will melt too quickly and will turn the broth bitter.
• bring to boil as fast as possible to kill bacteria (the broth can last longer for use afterwards) then simmer for 3 hours - don't boil - the vegetables need time for extracting the flavours and aromas
• don't mix during the simmering process because you don't want to incorporate the impurities. Instead, skim the top frequently.

1a. FISH FUME

• fish bone (use flat fish like flounder and sole that are delicate and basic), leek, celery, onion, jerusalem artichoke - all white vegetables
• it's better to start basic and enrich along the way to add aromas
• can use a fresh fennel spring that won't melt because it only cooks for 30-40 minutes.

2. FONDO BRUNO

• roast veal bones for 50 minutes at 200C (still the knees and legs). Toasting makes the broth brown by adding colour and a deeper flavour. The roasted bones will also be preserved for longer during cooking. Use smaller cuts because during roasting, the bones will have a protective film around them and the smaller cut will allow the browth to reach and absorb the aromas in the middle of the bones. Add trotters (raw, whole and washed, including the skin and nails for carotene) because they are rich in collagen/tendons.
• melt butter in an already heated pan and add a crushed garlic clove along with the mirapoix (use 1/3 vegetables to the weight of the bones (300g veg = 1 kilo bones)) and roast on high heat. Make sure the vegetables are evenly in a single layer because the water needs room to evaporate otherwise the vegetables will be stewed. This method coats the vegetables with a protective skin so they can cook for longer without melting. Drain on a paper towel and discard the fat. 
• Sear meat with olive oil instead of butter because butter has a lower smoking temperature
• Remember to continuously skim the sides of the pot as the simmering will cause some evaporation. If the impurities stay on the side of the pot, they will dry out, burn (effects the taste) and drop back into the pot (causing a cloudy effect).
• Add cold water (or white broth) to cover. Cold water is better for infusion because there are no alkaloids and non tannins. Can also add extra ice. Bring to a boil as fast as possible them simmer for 6 hours. 

3. GLASSA/GLACE

• After cooking the brown broth for six hours, filter it 4 times. First, with a pasta colander to get rid of the largest pieces. Second, with a china cup. Third, with a sieve. Fourth, with linen/cheese cloth. It's very simple, but requires a lot of attention. 
• Reduce over low heat. 
• Change to a smaller pot during reduction because the larger pot will be too large and burn/turn bitter with a large surface area.

With these three basic stocks, you can start to make sauces! 

Au Jus

• With the juices from roasted meat, white stock, brown stock, glace, wine or water can be added

Le SALSE

1. DEMI-GLACE

• it is reduced brown stock enriched with roasted veal meat (not added raw). 
• heat pan on low heat then add butter and when it is hot, add the meat in a thin, even layer so that the moisture has room to evaporate. Don't leave empty spaces on the pan because the butter will burn there (if butter is added to a cold pan that is then heated, the butter will melt unevenly and the first melt will burn).
• keep cleaning the sides of the pan to remove any burnt butter
• there is no ratio for meat to glassa - the more meat will be a richer sauce but it is usually 1/2 and 1/2 (i kilo glass for 1 kilo of meat)
• When the meat is just seared, put on a paper towel to drain, absorb and discard the fat. With the seared parts left in the pan, start to deglaze them with the glass (or any) stock - just a spoonful to detach them from the pan and becomes thick enough to cover a spoon. 
• Add this thick sauce to the broth and add the seared meat. The sauce will be ready when the meat is fully cooked
• Remember to skim the sides of the pan!

2. SALSA AL POMODORO

• blanch the tomatoes, peel and collect the seeds to make tomato water (seeds and skins passed through a sieve)
• cut a shallot in brunoise size -> delicately cut lengthwise then crosswise into little cubes. it is very volatile vegetable and you don't want to lose any juice or aromas on the cutting board.
• warm a pot and add extra virgin olive oil, crush garlic (skins will fall off) and the brunoise shallot - let it sweat without colouring - you don't want to roast it. 
• Add cut tomatoes when translucent without colouring, just concentrating the aromas 
• Add 1/3 of the tomato water
• Discard the garlic. 
• Season at the end becasue water will evaporate during cooking and then the salt content ratio will not be correct. 

"it's not their fault if they are out of season"

3. SALSA BéCHAMEL

• 500g fresh milk, 35g butter, 35g sifted flour
• bring milk to a boil in a pot, meanwhile melt the butter to make a roux (equal amounts of butter and flour)
• Roux: white (until melted); blonde (toasted 2-3 minutes longer); dark (clarified butter and cooked for longer - clarified butter because otehrwise it will burn). White roux should be like a paste
• Add heated milk to the roux and whisk to remove lumps. Boil 1-2 minutes and then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 

4. SALSA VéLOUTE

• 500g stock, 35g butter, 35g sifted flour
• same, just add stock instead of milk

5. SUPREME

• 500g stock, 250g fresh cream,  35g butter, 35g sifted flour
• After making the Véloute, add fresh cream 
• Can enrich with mushrooms and lemon juice

6. SALSA SPAGNOLA

• 500g brown stock with 1/2 roux (17g butter with 17g sifted flour)
• reduce with a spoonful of reduced tomato sauce (passed through a sieve) and steamed mushroom juice (also passed through a sieve just to get the essence of mushroom)
• let it reduce until it is of a glazed/glasse consistency.

Tip: if you are using frozen stock, reheat it upside down through a cheese cloth. the impurities will be at the bottom of the stock and you can get rid of them before the stock is completely melted.

SALSA EMULSIONATE

1. VINAIGRETTE (citronette)

• unstable. it's all about the balance between vinegar, fat and water (or lemon juice for citronette)
• dissolve salt with vinegar with a whisk (salt needs acid as it won't melt on its own in fat). Add a tip of the spoon of mustard to taste because 1. the French like it and 2. mustard seed powder acts as a stabilizer
• add extra virgin olive oil while whisking, drop by drop, because you have to break the fat. The smaller drops with a stronger/faster whisking motion will create a more stable vinegarette. Continue until it thickens

2. MAYONNAISE

• stable.
• room temperature eggs (natural stabilizer - will last longer if cooked a litte aka "denatured"), acidic water (vinegar or lemon-water), and oil (sunflower oil is preferred because extra virgin has a very strong taste however Ligurian and Garda olive oils are more mild)
• warm vinegar and water and dissolve the salt. add mustard if you like, then the yolk and whisk immediately so there is no coagulation from the water and vinegar. 
• Add the oil to emulsify, but only when the balance is even and not too oily. 
• Rebalance with a little water if it breaks
• Mayo can be mixed with tomato paste, pesto, vegetable puree, herbs, anchovy, olive paste, squid ink.....

3. HOLLANDAISE

• same was as mayonnaise but use clarified butter instead of oil. 
• serve and keep warm

4. BERNAISE

• same as above but with a reduction of brunoise shallot, vinegar and tarragon whisked together then add egg yolk, clarified butter and top with fresh tarragon

5. PALOISE 

• same as above but substitute mint for tarragon
• great with goose or lamb

6. FAYOT

• Hollandaise sauce with veal stock added 

7. CHARON

• Hollandaise sauce with tomato paste

8. MALTAISE

• Hollandaise sauce with blood orange juice, topped with juice and zest

9. SCOZZESE 

• Hollandaise sauce with brunoise vegetables mixed in

This class almost makes me want to go to culinary school. But more realistically, grateful and excited for my internship.

A Herring a Day.

Arina's Second Blog Post.

Silver hair waving in the wind, with goose bumps all over his body, he licks his lips with satisfaction. Big salt crumbs disappear slowly while his stomach rumbles like a whale. He starts to dry himself faster so he can get away from the wet sand on which he is standing. The sea is waving him goodbye. He shivers, it‘s time for coffee and a proper breakfast. The morning ritual is not completed without a “heering” straight from the sea, with freshly chopped onions that still make your eyes tear up. Every day, my grandpa swam in the North Sea before heading to work. A herring a day keeps the doctor away—Arie’s life motto, which helped him live happily for 87 years.

Raw herring with raw onions: eat or hate it. 

It is a warm morning and the sun is just breaking through the clouds. The town of Scheveningen is busy. Today, June 12, 2010, is a special day. Vlaggentjes dag, the day on which the first barrel of new herring is sold, announces that the herring season is officially open, and it starts with the celebration, when all the boats in the harbor are decorated with flags. The history of vlaggentjes dag goes back to 1947, when the first edition was organized. Scheveningen, however, located in the heart of the Dutch coast, has celebrated unofficially since the 18th century. Children take tours on vessels and on fishing boats, while the older generation listens to the havenzanger, a band that plays music from the old days. The season will last until the days become shorter again and the leaves begin to fall. All fish markets and shops have new supplies of the pride of the Dutch sea.

The slippery tail almost slides through her little fingers, the two parts into which the herring has been cut flap dangerously, and some onions hit the ground. The two-year-old girl looks carefully at aunty Arie and at her mom before she follows their example. The Hollandse nieuwe must be eaten properly, as it is a ritual that is passed on by family members. You have to hold the herring by its tail, tilt your neck like a baby bird, arm up and let the herring slowly dive into your mouth. The soft silver texture of the herring has a salty taste; you can feel the sea embrace your cheeks as you chew. The tenderness of its flesh, combined with the hairiness of the bone structure, tickles your tongue while eating. It is not easy to hold the fish when eating. The fat and thickness, which makes the fish so famous for health reasons, makes it difficult to hold on to it after each bite. After three bites the little girl puts the fish down, which is not a bad thing. This way she can dip it into the yellow onions so the bitterness of the fish is well balanced with the crispy onions. The last bite makes her face become like a little silver herring too. My niece smiles happily.

By Arina Van Leenen 

- written for Corby Kummer's Journalism class. 

never trust a skinny chef - james beard

The benefits of going to a university in the same building as a prestigious culinary school is not only getting to meet these up and coming chefs but to have class with their professors. And we were oh-so lucky to have a lecture one day with Chef Tiziano Rossetti (also the head chef of the ALMA gala dinner...) ps - he is skinny. not fat at all. but i trust him. he was fantastic.

he made for us: 

shrimp with caw-we-flahwer poached in water

risotto with sweet pumpkin, aromatic rosemary and acitdic balsamic in chicken stock 

steamed fished with chopped herbs

fried fish 

-> demonstrations of heat transfers through different mediums. 

Sweet n' Sour Sauce: 500mL, white vinegar, 200g white sugar - whisk together. easy-peasy. add ginger, radish, hotness...whatever. whatever your heart desires.

just a little bit. piccolo. 

just don't show Jules how to add salt to a dish...at least not in our apt....

it's like a rain shower.

"I am a true adorer of life, and if I can’t reach as high as the face of it, I plant my kiss somewhere lower down. Those who understand will require no further explanation" - Saul Bellow.

some photographs a la carte of why i love my UNISG classmates:

they go into the fields to pick tomatoes leftover from the harvest.

they publish books. about food.

we cook together. 

we drink together.

they come to class with daily essentials in their bag, even when all you need is a pen.

they buy pasta machines to make fresh pasta. 

they bake fresh, homemade, delicious, and healthy bread.

we invite our professors over for dinner. 

they have promising potential become professional sommeliers. 

they are strong.

yes. they are strong.

A Lesson on Parmigiano Reggiano: Day 1

after 6 weeks of summer vacation, what better way to re-introduce ourselves into school mode than with two days of learning about a local specialty and international favourite, parmigiano reggiano. after some early morning squeals of welcome back hugs and kisses and catching up on the bus, we went to the parmigiano reggiano consorzio who deal with all the farmers and dairies, press, branding, legal issues, and quality controls to act as guarantee for both producers and consumers.

some facts about parmigiano reggiano from the consorzio:

cheese that does not meet the consorzio's quality controls can be discovered early on and sold under names like "young parmesan" or "table parmesan"___24-26 months (or older) is usually the best matured-aged cheese as the aroma develops with age, the second choice is parmigiano mezzano - 12-18 month aged cheese sold as fresh cheese, and the third is just "cheese" and sold to factories___a fee of E2500 is required to enter the consorzio and then must accept/follow all quality controls, allow inspections and meet the standards. on top of that, they must pay E6 per wheel of cheese produced___in the 16thC the word "parmigiano" was found in a French dictionary___imitation of the cheese started in the 20's and 30's with immigrants who tried to imitate the cheese abroad using local resources___the name "parmigiano reggiano" dates to the 1930's and in 1934 the consorzio was founded___the brand is registered in 57 countries outside of Europe but it is still difficult to uphold as every country has its own labeling rules___parmigiano is a raw milk, unpasteurized product (ok in the USA b/c the minimum for raw milk is 60 days and p.r. must be matured for at least 12 months)___Thomas Jefferson was the first US importer who discovered it and fell in love with it in Paris and set agents over to Italy to try to steal the recipe, unsuccessfully___parmigiano reggiano was the first cheese in space___it is lactose free after 2 years of maturation___2.8 million wheels of cheese are produced every year from about 450 dairies___big dairy farms produce about 100 a day but the average is 30-40___it is produced year round___75% of feed must come from hay in the area of production, some of it contains cereals, but no animal flour, sugar, onions or anything that changes the milk flavour is allowed - not even too much grass

we then went to lunch where everything included parmesan. to start:

warm parmigiano bread. surprisingly delicious and soft given that all the bread in the area is hard and crusty enough to possibly kill someone if thrown at them.

then we were served a plate with half a courgette topped with sausage and melted parmigiano; a spinach and parmigiano quiche baked in a bread cup; salad with pear, red grapes, parmigiano shavings with a honey-based dressing; and a chunk of parmigiano reggiano cheese with balsamic glaze and sweet red onions.

then the second plate included two different types of pasta:

the typical pasta of emilia romagna stuffed with ricotta and spinach and grated parmigiano and

 tagliatelli with a creamy parmigiano sauce and a sweet crema de lambrusco.

 then for dessert, we had a cocktail glass filled with eggy-fruity-parmigianoey zabaglione and biscuits.

after a heavy cheesey lunch, we sauntered over to Montecoppa diary farm where we were greeted by Fabio, a former UNISG tutor. within the forest that used to be owned by Napolean's wife, Maria Luiga who used to live in our university's building, they have 220 hectres with 450 female cows. the milk the cows twice a day from 3-6am ad 3-6pm for around 6-7 minutes each. the milk is left overnight so that the fat floats to the top and when the fat is removed, the evening partially skimmed milk is mixed with the whole milk from the morning.

some facts about parmigiano reggiano from the dairy Montecoppa:

certain cows are used/bred for meat production and milk production - not necessarily both___it is too expensive for them to be organic-certified___there are no male cows on the farm - the females are artificially inseminated - and the baby male cows are kept for 30 days and then sold___the average life of a cow is 8-10 years___there are micro-chips in the cows that systematically manage how much milk each individual cow should produce and counts how many steps she takes which registeres how nervous or ready she is for insemination___some farms will add water to the cows' feed mix so that it all sticks together and the cows cannot milk and choose the ingredients that they like, but this is not allowed by the consorzio b/c the water in the feed permits the risk of bacterial growth___there are 3 stages: fresh milk production after birth, peak production, and almost dry with lower milk production___600L of milk = 1 wheel of cheese, 16L = 1Kilo___Montecoppa is considered an artisinal farm because they only produce about 12 cheese wheels a day___36-40kilo is the average weight of a wheel but they lose 200g a month - 45 kilo is the amount of fresh cheese on the day of production___cheese ages fora  min of 1 year, 36-48 months is considered special reserve___younger cheese is milkier, whereas matured cheese is sandy and nuttier. 

"After all, you only have one life, so you should try to make the most of it." Holes - Louis Sachar

before going on a study trip to Belgium, it is obligatory to have beer tasting classes. in the first class, we learned about the different ingredients and the general process of making beer. we tasted 7 German beers, a Pilsener from Czech Republic and a local Parma beer from Italy. our second class, started at 10am and included 3 British pale ales, 1 Scottish golden ale, 1 British IPA, 1 British porter, and 1 British stout and 1 Imperial Stout from Scotland,  and 1 Sierra Nevada from the USA. oh and a british barley wine of 11.7% ABV. my favorite was our professor's home made american pale ale. this would definitely prepare us for the breweries we would visit in Belgium. 

10 beers 10 am. no problem.

ps. i've completely forgotten how to say "obligatory" without an italian accent. ob-lig-a-tory. 

pps. i like the word "coagulation"

<3

after class, we caught the train to Milan to spend the night with Diana's friends before catching a 6:55am flight to Holland. in a very typical italian way, we went out to dinner then had cocktails in an outdoor bar with a garden canopy only to wake up 2 hours later to catch the bus to the airport. tiredness aside, following a weekend in Genova and the sea-side, a Parma Summer Party, Fourth of July/Canada Day festivities, following and cheering the World Cup games, and classes in between - regardless, we're always on the go and up for anything that comes our way, making the most of life. 

camogli. 

sweltering summer.

american- and canadian-ness in italy.

Holland makes it to the Finals! 

"Nothing of me is original. I am the combined effort of everyone I’ve ever known." Invisible Monsters, Chuck Palahniuk

UNISG FCC 2010. fantastic.

thank you emily for the picture. this was my favorite.

click here for a link to our UNIG blog aka "The New Gastronomes": 

and 

click here for a link to the UNISG Courtside Collection: recipes from when we cooked for class, so amazingly put together by lindsay

sweet like honey. bzzzz.

today's tasting: honey. 9 different spoonfuls to taste. 9 glasses of the same honeys to smell. 3 bits of candied orange peel. 1 cup of meade. 2 cheeses. 1 italian speaking lecturer and 1 funny translator. 50 sugar-high students. 

orange blossom, lavendar, rapeseed, red fir tree, ivy, heather, lime tree/linden, ecalyptus and manuka.

all had different flavors, aromas, consistencies, tastes, viscosities, some were gritty with sugar, others melted in your mouth. orange blossom was a favorite. lavender too was smooth and floral. rapeseed had an unpleasant smell but the taste was fresh because it was thin. red fir tree was honey dew from the tree so it was sticky and soft - perfect for on pancakes. ivy is very hard to make because october-november are bad weather conditions for honey, but it was thick and reminded me of confectionary sugar with a weird melting sensation. heather was very bitter and spicy like chocolate, toffee or caramel. lime tree was thick with a bright, fresh mint flavor. ecalyptus i wanted a hot cuppa tea and toast to smear it on - thick and sticky with salty remnants of dried mushrooms. manuka was really thick and gritty and none of us are sure what it is. 

there are 34 different kinds of honey in Italy, but not some of the world's best. 

honey is kinda like bee vomit - they store nectar in their stomachs until they get back to the hive where they regurgitate it. but not.

 

"making good honey is harder than making good wine."

the bee's main job is to collect nectar (food/energy) in the summer to survive the winter. but, the bee's life is so vigorous and stressful that in the summer they only live for 4-5 weeks.

 

 bacon? no.

with the right heat, light and humidity conditions, honey can be kept for as long as 10 years.

honey can be used in fruit salad to keep it fresh and prevent the fruit from oxidizing, used with meat not only to preserve it but like bbq, keep the outside crunchy and the inside juicy, old "games" and mixed with water or something has something to do with hydrogen peroxide (which popi unsuccessfully tried to mix).

WAX.

(above) popi scraping the last of the honey from the aroma glasses. for some reason, looking around the classroom, other students barely touched their small spoon samples. not ours. 

Save the World with Meatless Mondays.

This week was devoted to Food Geography with Professor Sage from Ireland. it was a LOT. it was overwhelming. it was depressing. it was fascinating. some of the information i knew before, but it was reiterated to be re-enforced. basically, it was about the environmental dimensions of our food systems and how we impact the biosphere and the earth's resources through the food choices we make.

as i said, there was a lot of information, but i think it's provoking/relatable so i will share a few thoughts to ponder:

• "eating is an agricultural act" - wendell berry. it's also an ecological act: how and what we eat has implications for this one earth we live on - how we move, materials we use, production processes, our waste. think about it. 
• despite the overabundant amount of food we produce, about 1 billion people are starving because of lack of financial powers and entitlements (the number does not include "food poor" in OECD countries) compared to over 1.5 billion who are obese and overweight. 
• china ate more meat in 2005 than the world ate in 1961. meat consumption usually increases with countries' economic prosperity therefore the wealthy have more resources of protein. low income diets are often high in fat and sugar but then again, meat consumption has its own medical implications. the wealthy also have the option to be vegetarians because of available fresh foods, knowing the health benefits comes from high levels of education which is related to wealth, and the distance between work and home is related to wealth and most fast food is eaten in cars. sometimes diets and food choices are not really choices at all. 
• a food system is defined as agriculture -> food processing and manufacturing -> corporate retail (most power) -> consumer. poli/econ/socio changes are all interconnected in this structure. it's linear, but we need to close the loop. how? the decision making is made by retailers who tell farmers what and how much to grow, they respond to and shape what consumers want or are lead to believe they want - profit motive is disguised by price, convenience, choice, health
• we are no longer selling food products, but novelties, commodities, statuses, conveniences, medical health promises and fortifications (aka stripping a product of it's "foodness" and meaning to just have it engineered back in for a higher price aka "added calcium" or probiotic yogurts). ** stay away from foods that make medical promises**
• wal-mart sells organic food - good to make it available to masses at affordable prices, but it has the impact of wiping out "organic" by softening the organic standards and by offering lower prices people will buy their organic at wal-mart instead of from the local farmers. by selling food in an organic/farmers market-looking setting, people may feel as though it really comes straight from the farm, but to wal-mart, what is local? 30 miles? 300 miles? the USA?
• sustainability depends on social (if people don't understand) + economic (if it can't be implemented) + environmental ( if its bad for the environment) dimensions (= it won't work.) this intereconnectedness is not always reflected in policies or gov't decisions - dept of health, dept of agriculture etc are all isolated yet food is the inter-linakge of human and environmental health aka our health is related what we eat and the agriculture we get it from. 
• externalities: hidden costs that are not incorporate into what you pay - costs on health on the environment 
• 30% of total food purchased is thrown out and ends up in land fill (includes food scraps and entire packages/uneaten spoiled food)
• food is travelling further than before - more trucks on the road mean more pollution, more noise, more congestion. tractors drive on the farm, trucks drive from the farm to the manufacturer to the distrubution center to the retail store, then cars drive the food home, and then trucks take it to dumps - further removal from the direct supplier means more costs at each level and more transportation 
• air travel emits the most CO2 emissions, however, is it better to cut the food-air miles or the 3rd world industries? the 3rd world will eventually be affected by the 1st world emissions - whats the long term sustainability option? who needs kenyan green beans in december? however distance is not always the problem - more CO2 emissions are produced from local greenhouses sometimes - its not natural to grow green beans in the UK in the winter so it takes more energy to keep the greenhouses warm. 
• CO2 exists naturally in the environment, but the human-induced amounts have had catastrophic effects on the environment - if we don't stabilize the increase in 3 years, we'll breach the level of safety - which requires a reduction of 80% of greenhouse gases. the food sector emits 1/3 of ghg's of which 50% comes from livestock (farts+burps=methane) and fertilizer. 
• polar and glacial melts affect oceanic currents and circulation patterns, sea levels will also rise as water molecules grew with warmer temps, people/cities will disappear with nowhere to live, changing weather patterns (downpours, hurricanes, droughts will affect rain-fed agriculture, land erosion, farmer's reliance on predictive weather for the season), biodiversity will be lost as well as create new pests and spread diseases (mosquitos in warmer weather), low latitude areas already at their limit of heat and water stress upon their crops. wine: warmer weather = sweeter grapes = stronger alcoholic content = changing characteristics = less robust varieties losing out = himalayas the new tuscany. 
• humid zone thinking: a water scarcity generally means that we're dong the wrong thing - either using it in inappropriate ways or in the wrong places (LA is a city in the desert - people can't expect to have lawns, Arizona also should consider dry land thinking, for ex)
• we're feeding food to cattle so that we can eat meat, but by reducing consumption of meat and diary we could reduce carbon enourmously. what are the benefits of livestock production? do we need to eat meat? what about other forms of protein like insects? already popular in Mexico, could we introduce new culinary traditions?
• we are dependent on oil for almost everything as it is our primary source of energy but it is not a healthy relationship as the liklihood of finding new sources is pretty much nilch and not only are we using it and working at maximum capacity, there are new economies with large populations and industries demanding it (China, India). 
• oil prices will probably rise to about $150/barrel in 2011(as of 1 minute ago it is currently $82.83). which will drive up other prices - wheat, rise, sugar, beef. increased food prices + food shortages = crisis...social, political, economic. lots of (food) insecurity! 
• turning biomass into energy (biofuels of corn, soy, etc) - is it more important to feed our cars or to feed stomachs? 

our presentation was on food waste in the household and how it was critical to communicate to people about the amount of food waste they produce through the marketing model of awareness, interest, desire and action.

from what i can recall, at least twice during the course of the week i was in situations where the topics in class were directly applicable. first, in the local A&O supermarket, looking at all the pre-packaged meats, all i could think about was the packaging and the waste it represented and the process of the meat itself, where it came from, how it all looked "perfect" -> what we as consumers want it to look like - uniformly sized skinless, boneless chicken breasts, ruby red marbled meats. what kind of system was i giving in to and what environmental impact would i have on the earth from buying this food that was available and affordable to me? should i go to the macellaio down the street or where do they get their meat from? is it worth it to bargain hunt and discover which supermarket has the cheaper prices - if so, who am i benefitting? the second time was when i was sitting in front of my computer feeling annoyed and stuffed after eating a meal i wasn't even hungry for and doing some reading for our upcoming presentation and test. the article was about food waste and how many starving people there are in the world - it included some ridiculous fact about how many children were blind because they lacked vitamin A. then i felt guilty for feeling annoyed that i ate so much and guilty that i had so many calories even available to me.

it's also ironic to point out that our professor is stuck here in italy for a couple extra days because of a catastrophic environmental factor that has stopped all air traffic: the volcanic ash cloud in Iceland. From a bbcnews article's comment section i found amusing:

Isn't it great? Clear skies day and night untainted by contrails. The scientists will be loving this, the first occasion since 9/11 that they have had to measure the effect of air travel on the atmosphere. Andy, Glasgow
Andy from Glasgow - there is a volcano spewing out large amounts of particulates into the atmosphere. How are the scientists going to measure clean air? Richard Hawes, Herts

il miglior amico dell'uomo

so appropriately, and necessarily, after our two days on pig farms, production facilities and learning about the full circle meat-making process, we had two days of afternoon classes focused on cured meat tastings. the morning classes for those two days were cheese tasting. phew, what a week!

Cheese: we learned the proper way to evaluate them from a professional cheese taster, cristiano de riccardis. it is very, very important to touch the cheese with your fingers, lift it away from the plate to smell directly under your nose, then bring it away to allow your nose to breathand take in the smell completely. then do it again. when tasting it is ob-lig-a-tor-y to keep your mouth closed and chew a couple times.

evaluate first externally:

• rind - present, rough/brushed, flowering mould or plastic
• undercrust - present (color stronger), uniform distribution, soft or hard
• colors - milk white, greyish white, ivory white, straw yellow, yellowish-gold, orangish, grey-ish green
• eyes - absent (very, very important parmesan reggiano), round (dot->nut size aka Swiss), lengthened partridge (teardropish) , irregular (Roquefort) -> take into account # and distribution

then by smell and then by aroma: lactic, vegetable, floral, fruity, toasted,animal, spicy, and fermented/other family sensations.

they had smells that were described with words such as: rendered butter, boiled milk, fresh cream, humus, leather, cooked cauliflower, fermented hay, toasted hazelnut, pineapple, dried apricot,honey, bread, yeast, banana, mushroom, animal sensations, brioche.

the aroma was what you tasted and included words like: garlic, sage, toffee, white chocolate, yogurt, yellow apple, boiled potato, white pepper, clove, green onion, nutmeg, white flowers - chamomile, violet, rose, chestnut honey, animal hair, acacia honey, olive oil, green peas, amaretto,white asparagus, meat broth. yes, hearing someone say a descriptive word out loud generally means that you automatically can taste that flavor too. it's hard.

then by taste: sweet, umami, a little acidic, bitter - never spicy or salty.

it is very, very important to identify them from the strongest to lowest levels. ob-lig-a-tor-y.

the first four cheeses we tasted were brie de meaux, asiago pressato, pecorino marzolino and pecorino sardo. then on the second day we had pecorino toscano, bra duro, castelmagno bresidio alpeggio and formaggi di malga.

they were made with raw milk instead of pasteurized which creates a superficial, "perfect" look under a controlled environment, but because all of them were of the highest quality, the natural results from the raw milk were still perfectly uniform in color and had perfect distribution of eyes/holes with present undercrusts.

i like cheese.

Cured Meat: the first day was 23 different products. here are some facts on cured meat:

• there were more pigs than humans in italy during the 1970's and 1980's
• 3 breeds to make proscuitto di parma: large white from england, landrace from denmark, durac from the usa -> hybrid pigs account for 50% of pigs reared in italy b/c they gain weight faster
• today there are only 5 traditional breeds: mora romagnola (1,000 pigs), cinta senese (only indigenous tuscan breed not extinct), casertana (500 pigs) calabrese (600) and nero dei nebrodi (1300).
• prosciutto di parma was only started with the introduction of the english white during the british invastion of the 1900's.
• nothing of the pig is thrown out: hind leg (proscuitto, culatello) loin (lomo) nape (coppa) shoulder (spalla crudo or spalla cotta) cheek/throat (mix into salamis) belly (pancetta) lard (lard smear) skin (mortadella) sunga/kidney fat (used to cover exposed ham meat while curing)
• tuscan hams are generally saltier because they don't add salt to their bread, so compliments well
• goose is typical in jewish communities
• spiced, smokey meats are typical of northern italy because of the weather its harder to cure naturally so they smoke them
  

the meats we had included: prosciutto di parma 16 months, prosciutto di parma stagionatura naturale 24 months, prosciutto di cinta senese 30 months, prosciutto bazzone from n. tuscany, jamon iberico belotta (top quality - others are recepo or campo), culatell di zibello, capicollo azze anca grecanico, spall cotta/cooked shoulder, pindule della carnia/cured loin, speck alto adige, coppa, coppa al ginepro/juniper berries, carne salada, bresaola/beef rump, speck d'oca/smoked

goose chest, motzetta de cerf/salted deer meat, prosciutto di pecora/sheep ham, lardo di colonnata/strip of chewy fat, lardo di pata negra/melt in your mouth lard, ciccioli friolli/fried fat aka pork chip, pestat di fagagna/tube of lard with minced vegs and sassaka/bacon and lard from pig minced with goose lardons.

so greasy. i think everyone went for a run that afternoon.

the next day, after cheese tasting in the morning and lunch, we had round two of cured meats, this time different types of salami's.

here are some facts:

• salami -> sal - > salt: the main agent in preserving meat
• south of italy use fennel & chili powder, the north of italy uses fennel & black pepper
• industrial salami doesn't grow mould - the white is just rice flour but moulds break down the proteins, develop the flavor, eat the lactic acid and prevent spoilage. white, grey or green moulds are ok - orange and black are not!
• halein, hallstatt, salzburg, halle, halych, salt lake city -> all linked with salt
• filling is stuffed into natural guts which allow meat to breathe - the type of gut depends on the size of the meat product: small intestine=small salamis, colon=milano,felino,varzi, retum-fabriano, felino >1kg, bovine bladder=mortadella, pig bladder=culatello, pig blind gut=crespone, finocchiono >3kg
• the amount of minicing depends on the type of salami (whether you see big or small chunks of white fat) but is generally 70-80% lean meat and 30-20% fat porportions
• salamis are fermented cured meats so their curing process is different than prosciutto and culatello - need to dry in a warm/wet/humid environment to develop moulds and then age in a cool area.

the salamis that we tried (yes, i admit some were chewed to experience the flavor and texture, and spit out into a napkin. good thing we were in the back row. gross.) included: salame puro d'oca/pure goose meat, salame milano/typical deli slice, salame di felino/town name not cat, salame firottino from reggio emilia, salame fabriano from marche, salame di maiale nero dei nebrodi from sicily, sopressa di fagagna from friuli, finocchiona di san miniata from tuscany/fennel seed, kaminwurst/smoked, mortandela val di non from trentino, pitina from friuli/sheep, testa in cassetta di gavi from piedmont/pig head & tongue, mustardela delle valli valdesi from piedmont/pig head & blood, biroldo della garfagnana from tuscany/pig head & blood, sopressata di calabria/fennel and chili, chorizo jabugo/spoked paprika, salsiccia rossa di castelpoto from campania/smoked chili, ventricina del vastese from abruzzo/fennel and chili, n'duja from calabria/strong chili spiced spread

the look of some of them was just too much - the huge chunks of pure white fat, the gelatin from the pigs head and some things that were just unexplainable to comprehend putting in your mouth. but you can't really experience the salami for the full effect of the flavor, texture if you try to pull out the little white bits. it ruins the point of it. some of them would have been better in a blind tasting, but some of them were chewey and chunky others really soft and creamy and then to think about what they were possibly cased in....i definitely like the fennel and chili combination though.